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HIGH LIVING 

RECIPES FROM SOUTHERN CLIMES 
COMPILED BY L. L. McLAREN 

PREFACE BY EDWARD H. HAMILTON 
AND DECORATIONS BY W. S. WRIGHT 



PUBLISHED FOR 

THE BENEFIT OF THE TELEGRAPH HILL 

NEIGHBORHOOD ASSOCIATION 



PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY 
PUBLISHERS, SAN FRANCISCO 




A^ 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies rtecmvtci 

MAR g 1905 



L 



COPY B. 



Copyright, 1904 

by L. L. McLaren 

San Francisco 



<^. 



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\& 



By EDWARD H. HAMILTON 




The dictum went out that the sheep were to be parted from the goats ; and the 
goats were sent to Telegraph Hill. There were many shepherds for the sheep. They 
were led into the green pastures beside the still waters. At night their folds were 
watched and tended. 

But the goats foraged for themselves. They roamed the rough places. They 
browsed upon the tin cans and detritus of life. There were none to stroke them or call 
them soft names. They made their bed upon the long, hard road. They lived a 
strained and rugged life. They made a comrade of Necessity rather than Ambition. 
But they lived. 

It was the kids that died. They were not fitted for the chill nights and the buffet- 
ings. If they grew, they were gnarled and twisted. They lay down in squalor, and 
they arose in misery. But the sheep were tended, and the world ran on. 

Then some young women took notice of this unconsidered hillside where the 
goats browsed gloomily, and where the kids were gaunt and strange. These were 
young women of the pleasant ways of life. They could have gone on in the flower- 
bordered paths, hearing the lark sing and stringing the daisy-chains. But they left the 
pleasaunces and went up into the hard places, where the rough goats were, and the 
strange, white kids. 

Out of their devotion was born the Telegraph Hill Neighborhood Association. 
They made a small beginning, but it was a good beginning. There were ten thousand 
discouragements. But those young women put down those discouragements with cour- 
age. They established their association and rooted it in the rocks of the Hill. 

Where there was sickness they sent a doctor and a nurse, a flower and a smile. 
Where there was discouragement and waywardness they extended a helping hand. 
Where there was death they sent consolation. They gave fresh air to children 
who failed and faded in close, untidy rooms. They set up Education, where 
Ignorance had ruled. 

In other words, they have their free dispensary, their doctors and 
their nurses; they have girls' clubs, where they teach sewing and 






housework, boys' clubs, where the boys are taught to carve wood and work in leather 
and interest themselves in wholesome things; they have mothers' clubs, where those 
who will can learn the rudiments of nursing ; they have a kitchen garden, and a hun- 
dred pleasant ways of doing good. 

They are non-sectarian. 

Now, these young women need money to carry on their work. One of their 
ways of raising this money is the sale of the book of recipes for which my stumbling 
words are to make a lame preface. Many of the recipes have been collected from 
among the peoples of far-flung lands who live upon the Hill. Necessity has taught them 
how to cook many things that would be the despair of your servant of the kitchen or 
your chef at the club. There is a tang of high living about these recipes — of the liv- 
ing of peoples who dwell upon a hill. 

If you buy this book you will help the work of the Telegraph Hill Neighborhood 
Association. You will make the soft hand reach farther. You will send more nurses 
and doctors to the beds of pam. You will help Education and Hopefulness in the end- 
less struggle with Ignorance and Weakness. You will bring the browns and reds into 
cheeks now pale. You will let Happiness dance in eyes where Sorrow now sits and 
glooms. You will put one more flower on a dead child's grave. 

Don't you think it worth your while to buy the book ? 

It seems to me there is no nobler, no greater work than that which these young 
women and girls are doing and have done. When I think of it there comes to me out 
of the long ago a something learned beside a woman's knee — the same sort of woman 
as the ones who now are deifying American womanhood on Telegraph Hill. As I recall 
that something now it was the story of a voice that said : 

" Inasmuch as ye have done it unto one of the least of these my brethren, ye 
have done it unto me." 





Soups 
Shell Fish 

Fish 
Fish Sauces 

Eggs 

Entrees 

Chicken 

Macaroni, Rice, Etc. 

Vegetables 

Salads 

Desserts 

Candies 

Breads 

Cakes 

Punches 



BARCELONA OLLA — Soak one cupful of Italian peas with one pound of cod- 
fish overnight in cold water. Take out the fish and squeeze the peas out of their skins. 
Boil two pounds of soup meat in four quarts of water, one onion and four cloves of gar- 
lic. Skin and add two and a half dozen of string beans, the peas, a piece of cabbage, 
one turnip, two carrots, one-quarter pound of ham, one-eighth pound salt pork, and boil 
slowly. When nearly done add some small peeled potatoes and one cheroza (canned 
sausage), and a roll of meat prepared as follows : Sprinkle one pound of chopped beef 
with one teaspoonful chopped pcirsley and one clove of chopped garlic, one teaspoonful 
flour and one egg. Mix well and form into a roll. Put carefully into the soup and 
boil slowly for one hour. Strain off the soup, thicken with macaroni. Place the meat 
roll in a platter, pile the vegetables neatly around it, and pour over the sauce. 

HINDUSTANI SOUP STOCK — Into a saucepan put two to three pounds of 
knuckle of veal, or neck of mutton, six dozen small onions, quartered, one large bunch 
of celery, chopped, a ham bone or slice of ham, pepper and salt. Cover with two 
quarts of water and simmer until reduced to one and one-half quarts. Strain through 
piece of muslin and put in cool place. 

HINDUSTANI COCOANUT SOUP — Grate the white meat of two cocoa- 
nuts, mix with one and one-half quarts of prepared stock, add two blades of mace, salt- 
spoonful of ground cinnamon, salt and pepper. Simmer about one-half hour. Strain 
carefully through muslin. Make a paste of the beaten yolks of two eggs, juice of one 
lemon. Add enough flour to make a thin batter. Add this gradually to soup, stirring 
constantly. Serve with a dish of boiled rice. 




BOUILLABAISSE — Cut in pieces two and a half inches square one-half 
pound each of six different kinds of fish, such as sea-bass, halibut, rock-cod, sole, 
flounder, and add any shell fish in season. Chop one large onion and one 
clove of garlic, and fry in one cupful of Sierra Madre olive oil until trans- 
parent. Add three pounds of fish bones and trimmings or any cheap 
inferior fish, cover well with water and one cupful of white wine, two 





ay leaves, three cloves and vv^hole peppers and tw^o blades of mace, and simmer 
tw^enty-five minutes. Strain and squeeze through a cloth until every drop of the juice 
is extracted. To this broth add one cupful of white wine, one-half teaspoonful of kitchen 
bouquet, juice of a lemon and a pinch of Spanish saffron, and stew the fish in it until 
tender ; then pour it into a tureen in which has been put several slices of toasted bread, 
and serve. 

CHESTNUT SOUP — Boil one quart of large Italian chestnuts for twenty 
minutes. Take off the shells and thin brown skin. Put into a saucepan with enough 
boiling water to cover them. Add a teaspoonful of salt and a piece of lemon rind. 
When soft, rub through a sieve. Then pour over them, stirring all the time, two quarts 
of good veal or chicken broth, one wineglassful of cream and a tablespoonful of butter 
rolled in flour. Bring to a boil. Serve very hot. This will be sufficient for eight 
persons. 

LOBSTER SOUP — Pick the meat from a two-pound lobster, chop fine and 
pound in a mortar, adding from time to time a little milk or cream. When perfectly 
smooth, add salt and a little cayenne. Take out enough to make a dozen small balls, 
and bind with egg. Fry the balls in butter. Mix the rest of the lobster wilh two 
quarts of milk and rub through a sieve. Put in a saucepan and simmer for ten minutes. 
Add two ounces of fresh butter and stir until smooth. Place the balls in a tureen, 
pour over the soup, and serve. 




BISQUE D'ECREVISSES — Clean carefully twenty ecrevisses. Into a sauce- 
pan put one quart of water, a teaspoonful of salt, cayenne, a small onion, a carrot, a 
sprig of celery, all finely cut, and one -half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Then 
add the ecrevisses and boil for about five minutes. Take them out and remove 
the shells. These must be put through a meat-chopper and pounded in a 
mortar with a little butter. Put this paste into a saucepan with a cupful 
of the liquor in which the ecrevisses have boiled, one quart of bouillon 
or milk, one-half glassful of white wine, and one -half cupful of bread 





disks which have been toasted. Simmer together a half-hour and then pass through a 
sieve. Put back on the stove and stir with a wooden spoon until it comes to a boil. 
Add the ecrevisses and a small piece of butter and serve as soon as the butter has 
melted. When done it should be of the consistency of cream. 

CHICKEN SAMBA YON — Have ready one quart of strong chicken broth 
from which the grease has been carefully removed. Beat well the yolks of eight eggs ; 
put in a double boiler with the broth and stir until the mixture thickens. Serve in 
bouillon cups with toasted crackers. 

PEANUT BISQUE — Remove the brown skin from one pint of peanuts ; chop 
very fine, add one quart of veal or chicken stock and simmer until tender. Rub 
through a puree sieve, adding a little milk from time to time. Season with salt and 
pepper, and add enough beet juice or pink coloring paste to give a good tint. Serve 
with peanut crackers which have been toasted in the oven. 

HINDUSTANI CHICKEN BROTH (For Invalids) — Cut up an old fowl 
and simmer gently with three pints of water, one sliced onion, bunch of parsley, two 
cloves, one pepper, until it falls to pieces. Strain, and when cold remove all the grease. 
Mix one tablespoonful of arrowroot to a paste with a little of the broth and pour over 
it slowly, stirring all the time, one pint of the hot chicken broth. Boil for a few minutes, 
and serve. 




CASUELA (National Dish of Chile) — Cut up a young chicken, or one and a 
half pounds of lamb in two-inch pieces, and fry until a light brown in some lard in 
which a chopped onion has been fried. Add two peeled tomatoes and two 
chopped green peppers. Put all of this in a large saucepan and cover with 
three quarts of water and simmer for two hours. Then add one cupful of 
green peas, one-half cupful of string beans, one large green pepper cut in 
slices, with seeds removed, and two potatoes, cut in quarters, one table- 
spoonful of rice, and two ears of corn chopped in one-inch lengths, 





salt and pepper to taste. Boil until tender, and add four or five stalks of young mint. 
Into the broth stir the white of one egg and pour all into a tureen, in the bottom of 
which is the yolk of the egg mixed with a tablespoonful of vinegar. If the broth is too 
thick add a little boiling water. 

SPAGHETTI SOUP — Boil two pounds of beef, cut as for beef tea, and a 
slice of ham, in two quarts of water. When it has cooked for two hours add one cup- 
ful of white beans, previously boiled, two sliced onions, four chopped Spanish red pep- 
pers, one-half lemon sliced. Simmer all together until everything is soft, then mash 
through a colander. Add salt and one-half pound of spaghetti, and thicken with one 
tablespoonful of butter well mixed with one-half tablespoonful of flour. Simmer until 
the spaghetti is tender, then serve. 




PIMIENTO BISQUE — Boil six large sweet red peppers until tender. Remove 
skin and seeds and rub through a colander with a few spoonfuls of the water in which 
they were boiled. Boil one-half cupful of rice in three pints of white stock or milk in 
double boiler until perfectly soft, and then rub through a sieve. Add the pepper pulp, 
one teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful salt, and season highly with Tabasco 
sauce. Bring to a boil, remove from stove and stir in slowly one-half cupful of thick 
cream, mixed with the yolk of two eggs. Serve with croutons. If fresh peppers are 
out of season, Pimiento Morrones (canned peppers) can be used. 

GUMBO FILE — Joint a fowl and cut into pieces an inch square; cut in dice 

one-half pound of lean ham. Slice a large onion and two or three green peppers, and 

fry lightly in two tablespoonfuls of lard. Add the chicken and ham which have been 

dredged with flour, cover and stew for about five minutes ; when nicely browned 

add two and one-half quarts of boiling water and simmer till the meat is tender. 

Now add fifty oysters and their liquor, and one teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, 

salt and pepper to taste. Bring to a boil and stir in two tablespoonfuls of the 

file powder. It should be of a ropy consistency, and should not be allowed 

to stand. If it boils after the file has been added it will be ruined. 





COCIDO OR OLLA PODRIDA ( Madrid ) — Put in a soup kettle one and 
one-half pounds each of mutton, veal, garbanzos (chick peas), one slice of thin, raw 
ham, pieces of any kind of gcune or poultry, raw or cooked, and one-half pound of 
pork. Cover with a gallon of water ; add four ounces of salt and three pepper pods, 
one clove of garlic, and bring to a boil. Skim and cook slowly until the meat is 
almost tender, then draw off enough of the broth for soup and one pint besides for the 
sauce. Have ready one -half cupful each of summer vegetables (excepting cabbage), 
peas, Lima beans, squash, onions, string beans, corn, etc., and drop them into the pot to 
boil for twenty-five minutes. Five minutes before serving add a piece of chorizo or 
black sausage. Place the meat neatly on a large platter and surround with the vege- 
tables and serve with the following sauce : 

Sauce — Stew and strain three large tomatoes, add one cupful of broth, a few 
cumin seeds, salt, pepper, and two teaspoonfuls of vinegar. Bring to a boil, and serve. 

ONION SOUP OF NORTHERN ITALY— Cut three or four large onions 
in thin slices and fry until transparent, in one -half cupful of butter ; simmer gently for 
nearly an hour. Pour over a quart of rich, clear stock or milk, and bring to a boil. 
Have ready a hot tureen in which has been placed two or three slices of bread toasted 
a golden brown. On this pour the soup ; add half a cupful of grated Gruyere cheese, 
and serve. 







CANAPE LORENZO — Chop a medium-sized shallot, fry without coloring in 
two ounces of butter; add one tablespoonful of flour, and in one minute one pint of 
cream. When hot add one pint of crab meat, salt and cayenne pepper to taste, and 
bring to a boil. Cut bread one-quarter of an inch thick into round pieces and toast on 
one side only. Cover the toasted side with the crab and spread witb a thick layer of 
butter prepared as follows: Mix well together one-quarter pound butter and one -half 
pound of grated cheese, and powder with Paprika. Put your canapes on a buttered 
dish, and color in the oven. 

CRAB GUMBO — Clean and pick the meat from two large California crabs, 
being careful not to have the pieces too small. This will be enough for eight persons. 
In using the Eastern crab, which is much smaller, four times as many will be required. 
Sprinkle with salt and pepper and a dash of cayenne. Fry two good-sized onions in a 
large tablespoonful of lard, until transparent. Add four large tomatoes, skinned, and a 
sliced sweet green pepper from which the seeds have been taken, and a slice of ham 
cut in dice. Cover with three quarts of boiling water and simmer for one-half hour. 
Then add two pounds of young okra, from which the stems have been cut and sliced 
into inch lengths ; add the crab meat. Simmer until tender and gelatinous ; add a table- 
spoonful of butter, rolled in flour, and one-half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Bring 
to a boil and serve with rice. 




SOFT- SHELL CRABS A LA CREOLE — Clean six soft-shell crabs and 
dredge well with flour ; drop them into a large pot containing one -half cupful of boiling 
lard, one clove of garlic, one large tomato cut up and one-half teaspoonful of kitchen 
bouquet. When the crabs have cooked for five minutes, add about one quart of 
boiling water ; let this stew for at least an hour. Now add one pound of picked 
shrimps, also well rolled in flour, and salt to taste. Cook this twenty minutes, 
then season with the following : One-half gill of olive oil, one sliced lemon, 
one teaspoonful of made mustard, one tablespoonful of Worcestershire 
sauce, one teaspoonful of pepper sauce, a few mixed spices, and one- 
half pint of claret. Beat this all together and stir into the broth. 





Let this cook until the gravy is quite thick, one-half hour being usually enough. Last, 
drop in one dozen large oysters and cook for live minutes. Serve with toasted 
crackers. 

SHRIMP GUMBO — Shrimp gumbo is made in the same way as the crab 
gumbo, except that you substitute one pound of picked shrimps for the crab, and use 
only two large tomatoes. 

CRAB JAMBALAYA — Slice two onions and one clove of garlic very fine and 
fry until transparent in two tablespoonfuls of butter; add one heaping tablespoonful of 
flour and cook for two minutes. Then add three large tomatoes, which have been 
skinned, and one chopped green pepper ; simmer for fifteen minutes. Add two quarts 
of stock and, when it has come to a boil, the meat of two large crabs (about one pint), 
and one cupful of well-washed rice. Boil for one-half hour longer, and serve hot. 

CRAB SOUFFLE — Make pint of rich cream sauce, add the yolks of three 
eggs, and beat well, then a dash of cayenne and a cupful of grated New York cheese ; 
now add one pint of crab meat, finely picked ; then fold in the whites of the eggs, well 
beaten, pour into a baking-dish and bake in a quick oven. 



SOFT-SHELL CRAB AS PREPARED IN AN ITALIAN MONAS- 
TERY — Wash carefully six live soft-shell crabs and throw them into a bowl containing 
one pint of milk and three beaten eggs. Let them stand until they have consumed the 
liquid, then roll in fine cracker crumbs and fry in boiling lard. When done, serve with 
bunches of fried parsley. 






PLANKED SMELTS — Butter a hickory or oak fish plank quite generously; 
place the cleaned and seasoned smelts, upon which lemon juice has been squeezed, on 
the plank ; arrange the smelts in the form of a large fish, and put plenty of butter on 
them ; garnish with mashed potato roses (made with pastry bag and tube), sprinkled 
with bits of butter and finely chopped parsley ; put plank in oven and bake until pota- 
toes are browned slightly. Before bringing plank to the table, place sliced cucumbers 
and tomatoes, dressed with oil and vinegar, between the roses. 

ESCABECHE — Parboil two pounds of any white, firm fish, cut in fillets ; place 
them in a salad bowl and pour over three tablespoonfuls of oil, one of vinegar, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a little cayenne pepper, bits of orange peel cut thin, one teaspoonful 
onion juice, two bay leaves, one sliced green pepper, and a sprig of thyme ; m.ix all well 
and let stand several hours before serving. Garnish with sliced orange. 

FLOUNDERS A LA MAJOUEZ — Place the fish in a baking-dish of fire- 
proof ware, with a large tumbler of white wine, two tablespoonfuls of butter and one 
teaspoonful of salt ; put in a hot oven and cook until done ; pour off the gravy and add 
the yolks of three eggs which have been beaten into a pint of cream. Add a dash 
of cayenne, simmer (not boil) for two minutes, pour over the fish, and serve. 




FISH COURT- BOUILLON — Fry one large onion, thinly sliced, in a table- 
spoonful of lard. When transparent add one tablespoonful of flour and cook for two 
minutes ; then add one-half can of tomatoes (or four large, fresh ones), one large cupful 
of boiling water, the same of claret, one tablespoonful of butter, cayenne and salt to taste. 
Cut either striped bass, halibut or barracuda in pieces large enough for one portion 
and simmer in the court-bouillon until tender. Place the fish on pieces of dry toast 
and cover with the sauce. Garnish with sprays of parsley, and serve very hot. 

STEWED FISH — Slice one large onion and cook without brown- 
ing in two or three tablespoonfuls of olive oil. When transparent, add 
two pounds of any kind of white fish, cut in pieces. Add salt and 





cayenne, and cover. Simmer from twenty to thirty minutes. Beat together the yolks 
of twelve eggs ; add the juice of two lemons and one tablespoonful of vinegar. Stir 
into this very slowly some of the hot fish broth and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley. 
Pour this over the fish and simmer until the sauce thickens. Be careful not to boil it, 
as the sauce would curdle. 

CLAMS AND RICE — Chop fine one onion and a small piece of ham or 
pork, add a little Spanish saffron water, a bruised clove of garlic and one cupful of toma- 
toes ; stew all together for a few minutes, then add a pint of well-scrubbed small clams, 
still in the shell ; steam with the dish tightly covered for a half-hour, then add one cupful 
of well-washed rice and about one pint of water. Season with salt and cook until the 
rice is done. 

LOBSTER A LA CARDINAL— Make a pint of cream sauce, using either 
white stock, fish stock or cream. To this add the yolks of two eggs, the juice of one 
lemon and a little carmine for coloring. Then add, little by little, one-fourth of a pound 
of butter. Cut the flesh of a two-pound lobster into cubes, and add it to the sauce. 
Have ready a buttered mold, line it with one inch of boiled rice, fill with the lobster, 
cover with rice, and steam for one-half hour. When done, garnish with broiled tomatoes, 
and serve. 



SHRIMP FRITTERS — Make a batter of three well-beaten eggs, a pinch of 

salt, one-quarter cupful of milk, one tablespoonful of melted butter. Chop slightly with 

a silver knife one -half pound of picked shrimps, and stir into the mixture, adding enough 

stale bread crumbs to make a stiff batter. Drop by the spoonful into boiling fat, and 

fry a light brown. Drain on paper and serve hot, with a rich cream sauce which 

has been colored with a little tomato or anchovy sauce. 



SAUCE FOR BARRACUDA — Brown a chopped onion in one 
tablespoonful of butter, sprinkle in two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir and 
add one cupful of claret, one-half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet and 






a bunch of parsley, chopped fine. Simmer slowly one-half hour and then pass through 
a sieve into another saucepan ; add, little by little, one -half pound of butter and two 
chopped anchovies. When thoroughly hot, serve in a well-heated saucedish. Garnish 
the fish with slices of boiled beet and parsley. 

BAKED HALIBUT — Put slices of halibut into a baking-dish; add a little 
white wine and water, small pieces of butter and salt and a very little cayenne. Place 
in the oven and bake in a fire-proof baking-dish. For the sauce, blanch some finely 
chopped young onions, put them in a saucepan with an equal amount of shrimps, add 
white wine, salt and cayenne, a tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce and a lemon cut 
in thin slices. Cook gently for ten minutes, then add a tablespoonful of butter rolled in 
a little flour. Bring to a boil, remove from fire and stir in the yolks of two eggs. Pour 
the sauce over the fish, and serve. 

TURBAN OF FISH — Take one pound of boiled striped bass or halibut and 
rub it through a colander ; add one cupful of bread crumbs which have been soaked in 
milk and drained as dry as possible, one-half cupful of thick cream, one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, one teaspoonful of lemon juice, one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, a 
pinch of mace and a dash of cayenne. Then fold in the beaten whites of four eggs, 
turn into a turban mold and steam for twenty minutes. Serve as hot as possible, and fill 
in the centre with green peas. Pour around the form a rich cream sauce, well flavored 
with anchovy sauce. 




SOLE NEAPOLITAN — Clean a fine sole, season with salt and pepper, and 

place in a well -buttered, fire-proof platter, dark side down. Put into the dish one 

tablespoonful of butter, mixed with a teaspoonful of flour. Chop fine one white 

onion, one shallot, a little chives, one tablespoonful of chopped parsley, and one 

tablespoonful of dried mushrooms, which have been soaked in one cupful of 

boiling water for one hour, and then chopped. Put into a saucepan one 

tablespoonful of butter. When melted, add the above seasonings and 

a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Cook for two or three minutes, then 





dftsf) 



add one cupful of white wine and a few spoonfuls of the mushroom liquor, and boil 
ten minutes. Pour this over the fish, and bake about fifteen minutes in a moderate 
oven. Serve in the same dish. 

MEXICAN COD — Fry a clove of chopped garlic in three tablespoonfuls of 
Sierra Madre oil for a minute, then add one pound of potatoes which have been peeled 
and cut in small pieces, and fry brown. Then add one pound of picked codfish 
(which has been soaked in water overnight), one can of strained tomatoes, a little mar- 
joram, one cupful of vinegar, and the pulp of four large, sweet red peppers, which have 
been soaked and mashed through a colander. Cook slowly for two hours. 

FISH A LA GUAYMAS — Cut any firm, white fish into slices three inches 
square ; marinate for two minutes in one tablespoonful of Sierra Madre olive oil, one- 
half tablespoonful of vinegar, a few drops of onion juice, salt and pepper to taste. 
Spread each slice with some of the pulp of red sweet peppers (boiled and rubbed 
through a colander), and a spoonful of grated cheese, mashed to a paste with the yolk 
of an egg. Roll and tie with a thread, dip into a batter, and fry in hot lard until brown. 
Serve with a Spanish sauce. 

POTOMAC HERRING— Wash two salted Potomac herring well and soak 
overnight in two quarts of water. Dry carefully, roll in cornmeal, and fry a delicate 
brown. Serve with soft cornbread. 




OYSTER BUNDLES — Cut nice, even slices of the breast of either boiled or 

roast turkey ; spread over each piece a thin slice of boneless bacon, and put on top 

of each piece of bacon a large oyster ; roll up each slice of turkey, with the bacon 

and oyster inside so as to form a little bundle, tie each of these securely, place 

in a baking-pan and bake them long enough to cook the bacon, basting 

frequently with a little melted butter. Serve in a dish garnished with 

parsley. Rich, brown gravy should be served with these bundles. 





SPANISH SAUCE — Melt two ounces of butter in a saucepan, with two 
ounces of flour, and cook until brown. Stir in slowly one pint of bouillon, one and a 
half ounces of lean ham, one carrot, onion, stick of celery, cut up, two cloves and bay 
leaves, pinch of salt and cayenne, and stir until it begins to boil. Simmer gently for an 
hour, and strain. 

GARLIC SAUCE — Grate a clove of garlic, and add the yolk of one egg; rub 
smooth, and add one tablespoonful of bread crumbs which have been soaked in milk and 
squeezed dry, a pinch of salt and cayenne pepper. Stir in from seven to eight spoon- 
fuls of olive oil and the juice of one lemon. If it is too thick, add a little water. 

MAYONNAISE VERTE — Take the yolks of two raw eggs, the yolk of one 
hard-boiled egg, three gherkins, two anchovies, large bunch of parsley chopped very 
fine, salt and cayenne to taste. Put all the ingredients (except the raw eggs) into a 
mortar and mash thoroughly; then pass through a sieve, add the eggs and a small 
quantity of mayonnaise, and a dash of tarragon vinegar. 

SALZA — Take a cupful each of tomatoes, onions and green peppers (from 
which the seeds have been removed ) ; scald and skin the tomatoes, and skin the pep- 
pers by blistering on a hot stove. Chop all together, adding salt and enough olive oil 
to moisten. This can be eaten hot or cold on fish or cold meats. 




CHILE SAUCE FOR FISH — Mash to a paste one clove of chopped garlic 
and two red peppers, softened in boiling water and rubbed through a sieve ; add a little 
of the water, sak, and one tablespoonful of vinegar. Have heating in the frying- 
pan one cupful of olive oil, and add the pepper pulp. Cook any fish in this sauce. 



KAIHELO OR FISH SAUCE ( Hawaiian ) — Grate a cocoanut 
and place the meat in a sauceboat. Chop one pound of cooked shrimps, 
moisten with the cocoanut water, put in a cheese-cloth and squeeze 
every bit of the juice over the cocoanut, and serve. 





GENOESE FISH SAUCE — Fry one tablespoonful of butter in one table- 
spoonful of flour until light brown ; add one cupful of water in which the fish has boiled 
and one cupful of claret. Reduce by boiling, and add one tablespoonful chopped pars- 
ley, half a canful of mushrooms, and one shallot, all chopped fine, and simmer a few 
moments. Then add, bit by bit, two tablespoonfuls of fresh butter, stirring all the time, 
and serve. 

SAUCE ITALIENNE — Chop fine one tablespoonful of parsley, one shallot, 
half a canful of mushrooms, and, if liked, a little garlic. Put all in a saucepan with a glassful 
of white wine, and half a teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet. Reduce, and add salt and 
cayenne pepper to taste ; a tablespoonful of olive oil, and one cupful of bouillon. Simmer 
gently, and thicken with a tablespoonful of butter, rubbed in the same amount of flour. 







EGGS A LA BONNE CUISINE — Cut four hard-boiled eggs in half, scoop 
out the yolks, and rub to a paste, with a tablespoonful of butter, and one teaspoonful of 
anchovy paste, one pinch of curry powder and one teaspoonful of chutney. Fill the 
whites of the eggs with this, fry some rounds of bread a golden brown, and when cold 
spread with the remainder of the paste. Place one-half an egg on each round, and, 
with a pastry tube, garnish with a little cooked spinach that has been rubbed through a 
sieve with a little butter. 

EGGS A L'ARDENAISE — Beat to a stiff froth the whites of six eggs, 
seasoned with one-half teaspoonful each of onion juice and chopped chives, and one 
teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley, salt and pepper to taste. Butter a fire-proof dish 
and turn in the eggs, and pour on top very carefully four tablespoonfuls of thick cream. 
Place at equal distance the unbroken yolks, and bake quickly in the oven until the 
yolks are well set. Serve in the same dish. 

TOMATOES AND EGGS — Cut three or four firm, round tomatoes in half, 
and place them in a fire-proof baking-dish, skin down. Add one tablespoonful of 
water and bake until tender. Remove from oven before they lose their shape and 
scoop out a good portion from each. Break two eggs into a saucepan, add a teaspoon- 
ful of butter, waneglassful of cream, little onion juice, one tablespoonful of grated Parme- 
san cheese, pinch of salt, pepper and sugar, and whisk all until thick and creamy. Fill 
tomato cups with custard, decorate with a sprig of parsley. Serve very hot on toast. 




EGGS A LA STORK — Melt one large tablespoonful of butter in the blazer 
of the chafing-dish ; add one tablespoonful of flour, and cook for two minutes ; then stir 
in one pint of milk. Stir until it thickens and is perfectly smooth ; then add one tea- 
spoonful of salt, a dash of Paprika, one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and 
one cupful of grated cheese; stir until the cheese is melted, and then reduce 
the flame and break carefully on the sauce as many eggs as desired ; cook 
very slowly until the eggs are well set. Serve on pieces of toast, not too 
dry. With this drink the Schlitz which has made Milwaukee famous. 





FRICASSEED EGGS — Boil six eggs for five minutes ; lay them in cold water 
and remove the shells carefully. Roll them in flour ; then in egg, to vv^hich has been 
added one-half teaspoonful of oil and same of vinegar, a few drops of onion juice and 
a teaspoonful of chopped parsley, a grating of nutmeg, and salt. When quite covered, 
roll in vermicelli, broken to fine bits, and fry in deep lard. Serve with sauce made as 
follows : 

Italian Sauce — Fry together one tablespoonful of butter and one of flour until 
brown ; add one-half cupful of white wine and a cupful of bouillon, season with salt 
and cayenne, and boil about fifteen minutes ; add one teaspoonful each of chopped 
chives and parsley, a few stoned olives and chopped mushrooms, bring to a boil again 
and pour over the eggs. 

EGG TIMBALES — Allow one egg for each timbale. To four eggs, slightly 
beaten, add one-fourth cupful of cream, a few drops of onion juice, and one-fourth tea- 
spoonful of salt and a dash of Paprika. Turn the mixture into small buttered molds ; 
set in a pan of hot water, and cook until firm. Turn from the mold, and serve with a 
mushroom or shrimp sauce. 

SPANISH ONION RAREBIT— Boil two large onions until very soft, drain, 
chop, and return to the saucepan with a small piece of butter, milk, salt, pepper, dash of 
Tabasco sauce, one teaspoonful of made mustard, and one-half cupful of grated cheese. 
Stir until hot, and serve on toast. It should be the consistency of custard. Serve with 
Schlitz beer, after the manner of an ordinary Welch rarebit. 




EGGS A LA DURANGO — Boil six dried Spanish peppers twenty minutes 

Drain, remove the seeds, and skin and chop fine. Fry in a spoonful of lard with 

half a chopped onion, and one clove of garlic ( if liked ). Add one cupful of 

well-washed rice and cook until dry ; then cover with soup stock and cook 

until tender. Add a lump of butter, and salt to taste, and break half a 

dozen eggs on top of rice, and scramble. Serve on a hot dish. Omit 

the eggs and use as a stuffing for chicken or duck. 





SCRAMBLED EGGS AND MUSHROOMS — Clean and break into 
pieces half a pound of fresh mushrooms. Dredge with flour, sprinkle with salt and a 
little cayenne pepper ; melt four tablespoonfuls of butter, add the mushrooms, cook two 
minutes; then add two tablespoonfuls of cream, and cook five minutes. Beat four 
eggs slightly, and pour over the mushrooms and cook until the eggs are of a creamy 
consistency, stirring constantly. Serve on toast. 








ALBONDIGAS — Mix together two pounds of beef, veal or mutton, two mashed 
and skinned tomatoes, one-half an onion, chopped fine, one-half cupful of scalded corn- 
meal, pepper and salt to taste. Bind with one or two eggs and form into balls the size 
of a walnut. Roll these in flour and boil in a good beef broth, slightly thickened. From 
fifteen to twenty minutes will be required for cooking. 

DEVILED CHOPS — Mix together well one tablespoonful of butter and one tea- 
spoonful each of made mustard, French mustard, hot chutney, grated horseradish ; add the 
juice of a lime, a little Chile vinegar, salt. Paprika and cayenne pepper, and a few drops 
of onion juice. Rub this well into thick English mutton chops, broil rare and put the rest 
of the sauce over them in a very hot dish. 

SPANISH TONGUE — Boil a fresh tongue and when cold cut in thin slices. 
Take one pound of sweet red peppers and boil with a pinch of salt. When tender 
drain, remove the skin and rub through a colander. Add some salt, one teaspoonful of 
onion juice, and hy in lard five minutes. When cold mix with two tablespoonfuls (or 
less) of vinegar and one pound of ripe olives, pour over the tongue, and serve. 

FRITURA MIXTA — Take equal portions of breast of veal and chicken, 
calves' brains, kidneys and artichoke hearts. Mince very fine together, add one egg, sea- 
son with salt and pepper, and make into small cakes. Dip each into batter and fry in 
Sierra Madre olive oil. Serve on a bed of spaghetti, mixed with a good sauce. 

ANDALOUSIAN TRIPE — Soak one pound of tripe for twenty minutes 

in salted water in which a lump of washing soda has been dissolved. Wash well 

and boil until tender in one quart of water, with one onion stuck with cloves, one 

clove of garlic, two bay leaves, two green peppers sliced. Strain and pass the 

tripe through a meat-chopper ; then rub to a paste with two tablespoonfuls of 

butter, one-half cupful of thick cream, salt and Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce 

to taste, the pulp of six sweet red peppers ( parboiled and rubbed through 

a colander) and the pulp of three tomatoes. When well mixed add 





one teaspoonful of onion juice and three eggs, beaten separately. Pour into a buttered 
mold, cover, and boil in a saucepan three-quarters of an hour. Turn out on a platter, 
garnish with stuffed tomatoes or peppers and serve vv^ith Spanish sauce. 

VEAL CUTLETS A LA TOULOUSE — Cut some pieces of veal and fry 
in a little butter until brown. Make a puree of one-half pound of Italian chestnuts, by 
parboiling, skinning, and boiling in a cup of milk until soft enough to rub through a sieve. 
Cook again with a little milk, one tablespoonful of butter and salt to taste, until it thickens. 
Cover the cutlet on each side with a spoonful of this puree and lay on ice to stiffen. 
When cold dip in fine crumbs, then in egg and more bread crumbs, and fry in deep fat. 
Serve with Bechamel or cream sauce. 

LOMO — Cut two pounds of fresh pork loin into nice flat pieces large enough for a 
portion. Marinate for two hours in a tablespoonful of vinegar, a little chopped tarragon, 
a clove of chopped garlic, and a chopped pepper (seeds removed), then broil and serve 
on a bed of mashed potatoes. 




BEEF A LA MILANAISE — Have five pounds of the upper round of beef 
lied in a neat roll. With a carving steel pierce it through in eight or ten places, and 
insert sticks of macaroni and fat salt pork alternating in the holes. Sear it in hot lard all 
over, place in a deep casserole or saucepan, and cover with the following sauce : Soak 
two ounces of dried mushrooms in one pint of hot water for one hour, then drain care- 
fully and chop. Heat two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, and fry in it one large chopped 
onion until yellow, then add two chopped tomatoes, the mushrooms, two sliced green 
peppers and the water in which the mushrooms have soaked, one teaspoonful of kitchen 
bouquet, one cupful of white wine, one cupful of ripe olives, salt and Mcllhenny's 
Tabasco sauce to taste. Simmer all together five minutes, then pour over the 
beef ; cover tightly and bake slowly in the oven, basting frequently. When 
tender place the beef on a platter and surround it with spaghetti which 
has been mixed with the sauce. If the sauce has been reduced too 
much, thin with soup stock. 





DEVILED MEAT — Make a batter of two tablespoonfuls of dry mustard, three 
tablespoonfuls of flour, two eggs, salt and cayenne pepper, one teaspoonful of sweet oil 
and one of vinegar. Cut any kind of cold meat in slices and let soak in this batter, then 
fry light brown in lard. Pour the batter that is left into one cupful of hot soup stock or 
water ; add a small piece of butter and bring to a boil slowly. When it has thickened, 
pour over the meat, and serve. Cut gashes in cold turkey legs (the drumstick and second 
joint), rub this mixture well in, and broil for breakfast. 

CHANFAINA OF LIVER — Boil in salted water for three minutes one pound 
of lamb's liver. Drain and cut in small cubes. Chop fine one onion, one tablespoonful 
of parsley, six sprigs of mint, add two cloves, a few cumin seeds, one -half teaspoon- 
ful of cinnamon, a pinch of Spanish saffron, a dash of Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce, one 
tablespoonful of olive oil and one cupful of soup stock. Add one cupful of bread crumbs 
which have been soaked in hot water, drained and highly seasoned. Mix all with the 
liver and bring to a boil. Serve with Spanish rice. 

HACHIS A LA TOULOUSAINE (Italian Hash ) — Chop one pint of cold 
roast beef with a calf's brain which has been parboiled. Add two tablespoonfuls of 
melted butter and one tablespoonful of anchovy sauce, the yolks of four eggs, salt, pep- 
per and spice to taste. Form into balls, roll in egg and bread crumbs and fry in deep 
lard. Serve with tomato sauce. 



OKRA GUMBO STEW — Cut one and one-half pounds of lamb or veal into 

small pieces. Fry one sliced onion in two tablespoonfuls of lard a few minutes. Add 

the meat and brown slightly. Sprinkle with two tablespoonfuls of flour, stir well, 

cover with water and simmer until tender. When it has cooked an hour add three 

cut up tomatoes, one sliced green pepper (seeds removed), one -half teaspoonful 

kitchen bouquet, and one-half teaspoonful of salt. In another saucepan boil 

for one-half hour two pounds of young okra, from which the stems have 

been cut, one-half cupful of Lima beans and the corn cut from two cobs. 

Ten minutes before serving add the vegetables to the stew, thicken if 





Cntre'es 



necessary, and add one-half teaspoonful of sugar. Fill a buttered mold with well-cooked 
rice, bake in the oven for twenty minutes and turn out on a hot platter. Pour the 
gumbo around it, and serve. The Lima beans and corn are omitted in some parts of 
the South. 

KIDNEYS LOS ANGELES — Slice two beef or three calf kidneys, after 
removing the hard centers. Fry four sliced onions in two tablespoonfuls of lard until 
brown, then add six large tomatoes cut up, six green peppers (seeds removed), chopped, 
and four slices of bacon. Cook five minutes and add four potatoes cut in thick slices, 
salt and Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce to taste, the sliced kidneys and enough water to 
cover. Stew until the kidneys are tender, then thicken sauce with the yolks of six hard- 
boiled eggs rubbed to a paste with a glassful of sherry and one teaspoonful of Worces- 
tershire sauce. Add the whites of the eggs chopped, and serve with boiled rice. 

LIVER AND ANCHOVY — Cut into round pieces and toast on one side as 
many slices of bread one-quarter of an inch thick as there are persons ; spread with 
butter and then thickly with anchovy paste. Have ready some calves' liver which has 
been boiled three or four minutes only, passed through a chopper and rubbed smooth. 
To this add a little thick cream, some onion juice, pepper, salt, mushroom catsup. Pap- 
rika and tomato sauce. Mix well, then pile in a pyramid on the toast, cover with may- 
onnaise or brown sauce, to which a little anchovy sauce has been added, heat through 
in the oven, and serve. 




GRILLADES A LA CREOLE — Cut a thick tenderloin steak into pieces 

about four inches square. Pour a little Sierra Madre oil over each and let stand a 

few minutes. Put them in a broiler and cook over the hot coals to sear the meat 

and keep in the juices; then place them in a baking-pan, sprinkle with one 

chopped onion, one green pepper sliced ( seeds removed ), one-half clove 

of garlic ( if liked ), one tablespoonful of tomato sauce, juice of one lemon 

and one-fourth cupful of oil. Cover closely, and when brown turn them. 

Add a little water to the gravy, boil up, and serve. 





SAUSAGE AND CABBAGE ( Milanaise ) — Brown two tablespoonfuls of 
butter with two of flour in a saucepan, add one pint of boiling water, one teaspoonful 
of salt, cayenne pepper, a bouquet of herbs, one carrot cut in rounds, one teaspoonful of 
onion juice, and one-half a small cabbage cut in four pieces. Simmer until the cabbage 
is nearly tender and the sauce has been somewhat reduced. Fifteen minutes before 
serving add one-half a pound of sausages and cook until done. Place the cabbage on a 
platter with the sausages in a row on top and pour over it the sauce. Brussels sprouts 
can be used instead of cabbage, but must not be cooked so long. 

SPANISH FRICO — Half boil enough potatoes to make when sliced one and 
one-half pints. Line the bottom of a mold with these, cover with minced onions, then 
with rolled cracker ; add small squares of lean beef one-half of an inch thick, cut from 
the round, and on each piece place a lump of butter, first seasoning the beef with salt 
and pepper. Repeat the layers until the potatoes and two pounds of steak have been used, 
finishing with the potatoes. Then add one pint of sweet cream, which should just come 
to the top without covering the last layer. Put the lid on the mold and steam two and 
a half hours. 

ESTOFADO DE CORDERO — Put six mutton chops in a large frying-pan 
with one tablespoonful of color ( or lard ), one tablespoonful of vinegar, salt, chopped 
parsley, thyme, cayenne pepper, four whole potatoes, six small onions and one-half pint 
of water. Cook over a slow fire about twenty minutes. Thicken with flour, and serve. 




OYSTERS AND POTATOES — Beat lightly with a fork one pint of hot 
mashed potatoes. Blanch, chop fine and pound to a paste, with a little thick 
cream, eight ounces of almonds. Add these to the potatoes. Beat together until 
creamy, pile on a platter, and garnish with large fried oysters and slices of lemon. 



SOUTH PARK SWEETBREADS — Parboil two fine calf 
sweetbreads and break into neat pieces. Rub to a paste the yolks of 
four hard-boiled eggs, one -third of a cupful of fresh butter, add one 

21 





tablespoonful of brandy. Put in the blazer one tablespoonful each of flour and butter, 
cook one minute and add a cupful of cream, salt and pepper and nutmeg to taste. Stir 
till it thickens and then add one-half cupful of sherry and the paste, stirring all the time. 
When quite hot add the sweetbreads, the chopped whites of the eggs, and reduce the 
flame. Simmer for two minutes, and serve with hot biscuits or buttered toast. 

SWEETBREAD AND OYSTER PIE — Blanch and parboil a pair of fine 
sweetbreads. Break in small pieces and place half in a pudding-dish, which has been 
lined with puff paste. Drain a pint of oysters and place a layer on the sweetbreads ; pour 
in a rich cream sauce, then add another layer of sweetbreads and oysters, cover with the 
sauce, and, lastly, add a top of puff paste. Bake in a quick oven. 

SWEETBREADS A LA BEARNAISE — Blanch one pound of sweetbreads 
by soaking first in warm water and then in ice water for half an hour, cut in pieces and 
place in a saucepan with two tablespoonfuls of butter, salt and pepper; brown on both 
sides and simmer slowly until tender. In another saucepan boil one-fourth of a cupful 
of tarragon vinegar with one teaspoonful of hashed shallot, two bay leaves, one-half 
teaspoonful of onion juice, six whole peppers and a grating of nutmeg, and reduce one- 
half. Place the saucepan on the corner of the range and add while stirring a little but- 
ter and the yolks of three eggs. Put this in a double boiler and add little by little, 
always stirring, two tablespoonfuls of butter till the sauce is thick ; then put in the sweet- 
breads, and when hot serve on toast. 




TERRAPIN — Select cow terrapin if possible. Plunge the terrapin in boiling 

water for five minutes, then take out and rub off the skin of the feet and throw back 

into fresh hot water. Boil until the shells show sign of cracking. Remove the under 

shell first, then cut off the head and claws, and remove the gall and sand-bags very 

carefully. Cut up the remainder in pieces, not too small, and the intestines quite 

fine, and be careful to preserve the juice and eggs. For each terrapin, allow 

the yolks of three hard-boiled eggs, one-third of a pound of the very best 

butter, one heaping tablespoonful of flour, a wineglassful of sherry and a 





teaspoonful of brandy ; salt, cayenne pepper to taste, a grating of nutmeg, and one-half 
cupful of strong beef stock. Mash the yolks to a paste with one-half the butter ; put 
the other half in a saucepan and fry with the flour until a very dark brown, add the 
beef stock and bring to a boil; then the wine, seasoning and terrapin. Simmer for a 
few minutes, and, last of all, add the egg paste and the terrapin eggs, and be careful not 
to boil again. When ready to serve heat in a double boiler, as boiling will ruin the 
sauce. Serve with big hominy. 

BIG HOMINY — Soak two cupfuls of big hominy overnight. In the morning 
put in a porcelain-lined saucepan with two quarts of cold water, two tablespoonfuls of 
salt, and boil until tender ( three or four hours ), stirring occasionally with a wooden 
spoon. Add a large tablespoonful of good butter, and keep hot until ready to serve. 



VIRGINIA HAM — Soak a Smithfield ham in a tub of tepid water, skin side 
up. In the morning, scrub it well with a brush and trim off any imperfect places, then 
sew tightly in a strong piece of muslin, and weigh. Allow twenty minutes' boiling to 
every pound. Place the ham in a large boiler and fill up with cold water, throw in some 
whole spices and two or three bay leaves. Put on the back of the stove and heat very 
slowly, occasionally skimming. Simmer gently until it is nearly tender, then remove from 
fire, and as soon as it is cool enough to handle take off the cloth and skin. Trim away 
the brown, unsightly underside and place in a dripping pan. Paint the top with cream 
and cover with powdered cracker crumbs mixed with a little brown sugar. Stick whole 
cloves in at regular intervals and brown in a quick oven. Serve the following day with 
a good salad. 






^oultrj) anD #ame 



CHICKEN MILANAISE — Prepare and truss a young chicken, as if for roast- 
ing. Put it in a casserole, and pour over it two tablespoonfuls of olive oil, a cupful of 
white wine, a cupful of bouillon, salt and cayenne to taste, one spoonful of dried 
mushrooms, soaked in one cupful of water and chopped fine, and one-half can of mush- 
rooms. Cover tightly and simmer in the oven for about an hour, turning the chicken 
occasionally ; add a dozen olives and a tablespoonful of butter, braided, with one table- 
spoonful of flour, and bring to a boil. Remove the chicken and add about a pint of 
boiled spaghetti or tagliarini to the sauce. Place the chicken on a platter, surround 
with the spaghetti, and serve with grated Parmesan cheese. 

TURKISH PILAU — Boil a fowl in two quarts of water, to which has been 
added two onions, cut in quarters, three bay leaves, one tablespoonful of salt, a few 
whole peppers, three cloves and one stick of cinnamon. When beginning to be tender, 
remove the fowl and cut all the white meat off in neat pieces. Strain the broth into 
another saucepan and bring to a boil (there should not be more than a quart of it). 
Scatter slowly in one cupful of well-washed rice, and boil hard until it has swelled well ; 
then add a cupful of seeded raisins, the cut-up chicken, and a large lump of fresh butter, 
and simmer on the back of the stove until the rice is thoroughly done, stirring occasion- 
ally with a fork. 




CHICKEN CURRY (Hindustani) — Slice one medium-sized onion, one clove 
of garlic, and a small piece of ginger-root, and fry until light brown in three tablespoon- 
fuls of olive oil. Then add two tablespoonfuls of curry powder and one tablespoonful 
of flour, and cook for two minutes, stirring well; then add three cupfuls of chicken 
broth; stirring continuously, and simmer for twenty minutes. Strain through a sieve; 
add salt and pepper to taste and the cream of a cocoanut. Last of all, add the 
chicken, cut in neat pieces, and pour all into a double boiler, to keep hot until 
served. Do not let the curry boil after the cocoanut cream has been added, 
as it may curdle. To prepare the cream, shave off the brown inner skin 
and grate the meat of a large cocoanut. Pour over it one cupful of milk, 
let it stand fifteen minutes, and scald. Drain the juice carefully into a 

24 






bowl ; put the meat in a bag and squeeze out all of the cream. The meat should be 
quite dry and like snow, and is piled in a dish on the rice-table. This curry sauce can 
be used with fish, crabs, shrimps, sweetbread, oysters, eggs and kidneys, etc. Milk or 
fish stock can be substituted for the chicken broth, if a maigre dish is required. Rice is 
always served with it, and the orthodox rice-table should be used. 

CHAUD-FROID OF CHICKEN — Boil two young chickens until tender; let 
them get cold and carve into neat joints, removing the skin. Make a rich cream sauce 
of the chicken stock, season with kitchen bouquet and sherry ; let simmer gently for an 
hour, and strain. Dip each piece of chicken in the sauce till entirely covered, and place 
on ice till quite cold. Serve with lettuce and French dressing. 

CHICKEN PICANTE — Cut up a chicken in small pieces. Cover with water, 
and stew until nearly tender ; then add four medium-sized potatoes, cut in halves, and 
boil slowly. Half an hour before serving fry two sliced onions brown in two table- 
spoonfuls of hot lard ; add the pulp of six large, sweet red peppers (soaked overnight 
and pressed through a colander) ; cook for two minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of 
olive oil, and when very hot add one cupful of cheese, cut in small pieces. Stir until the 
cheese is melted, then pour over the chicken and potatoes and bring all to a boil, stirring 
to keep from burning. Serve very hot. 

CHICKEN DAUBE — Stuff a young fowl with forcemeat, made of one pound 

of sausage-meat, one-half pound of cold, lean veal or tongue, cut in inch strips, and one 

pint of bread crumbs, soaked in milk, and then squeezed as dry as possible. Season 

with one teaspoonful of onion juice, one teaspoonful each of powdered sage, thyme, 

cloves and allspice, salt and cayenne pepper to taste. Truss carefully, and brown 

the chicken in a tablespoonful of lard ; put it in a saucepan, cover well with water, 

add a bunch of soup vegetables, a calf 's foot and two bay leaves ; cover and 

simmer until the chicken is tender ; then remove from the pot and place in 

rather a small mold. Strain the broth and skim off the grease carefully. 

There should be at least one pint of liquid. To that add about one- 





half teaspoonful of kitchen bouquet, the juice of one lemon, one-half cupful of white wine, 
and one-half tablespoonful of gelatine, dissolved in a little warm water. Bring to a boil, 
strain through a cloth, pour around the chicken, and put on ice. Turn out on a platter, 
on a bed of lettuce leaves, and serve with mayonnaise dressing. 

SMOTHERED CHICKEN — Split a young roasting chicken down the back 
and lay it, breast up, in a baking-pan or a casserole. Spread with a layer of butter, 
pepper and salt, and pour over it a cupful of boiling water. Cover closely, and cook in 
the oven about an hour. If nearly tender, pour over it one cupful of thick, hot cream, 
and two cupfuls of fresh mushrooms ; cover again, and cook from fifteen to twenty min- 
utes longer. Place the chicken on a hot platter, stir the gravy well, and, if necessary, 
thicken it with a little flour, pour over the chicken, and serve. Oysters can be substi- 
tuted for the mushrooms. Cook quail the same way. 

CREME DE VOLAILLE — Pass the white meat of a fowl through a chop- 
per, then rub it through a sieve. Work into the pulp, one at a time, the yolks of three 
or four eggs and one gill of thick cream (or cream sauce). Season with white pepper, 
salt and grated nutmeg. When perfectly smooth, butter a mold and decorate bottom 
and sides with thin slices of truffles, then pour in the mixture, to which has been added 
the beaten whites of the eggs. It should only half fill the mold. Cover tightly and 
boil for one and one-half hours in a saucepan half filled with boiling water. Sene with 
a rich cream sauce, to which have been added thinly sliced truffles. 




BLANQUETTE OF TURKEY— Heat one tablespoonful of best butter in the 
blazer of the chafing-dish ; stir in one dessert-spoonful of flour, and cook for two min- 
utes; then add one-half cupful of highly seasoned white slock, one -half cupful of 
thick cream, a dash of lemon juice, salt, Paprika and grated nutmeg to taste, 
and a few drops of onion juice. Reduce the flame and simmer three 
minutes ; then add one pint of breast of cold turkey, cut in small pieces, 
and cook five minutes more. Stir in the well-beaten yolks of two eggs, 
and serve at once. 





MARYLAND CHICKEN — Select young chickens, if possible; if not, par- 
boil older ones. Cut each chicken into six pieces ; dip each piece in milk, and then roll 
in flour. Fry some pieces of salt pork, and when the dripping is very hot put in the 
chicken. Cover and put on the back of the stove, where it will cook slowly. When 
brown on one side turn and brown the other. When the pieces are done remove them 
to a hot dish ; add to the dripping in the pan two tablespoonfuls of flour, and stir until 
smooth ; then add one pint of rich milk or cream and stir until it thickens ; add a table- 
spoonful of finely chopped parsley and pour over the chicken, and heat. Always serve 
with rice and, if possible, with corn fritters. 

CHICKEN A LA BORDEAUX— Take young squab chickens, about the 
size of quail, and stuff with chopped celery, a small onion and seasoning. Bind the 
chicken with very thin slices of breakfast bacon and put in a pan ; add a cupful of hot 
water, a tablespoonful of butter for each chicken, a few small salad onions, a very little 
salt, pepper, and a few dried herbs. Cover tightly, place the pan where it is not too 
hot, and stew until tender. Usually it will take from three-quarters of an hour to an 
hour. When very tender, remove, take off the bacon jacket and put in a hot oven 
until browned, basting frequently with the gravy. If necessary, a little more water can 
be added before putting in oven. When done, pour the gravy over the chicken, and 
serve with a water -cress salad. 




FRITTER BATTER — Pour one tablespoonful of oil in a cup and half fill 

it with warm water. Have one cupful of sifted flour in a bowl, and mix it slowly 

with the water until perfectly smooth. Make a soft batter, adding more water if 

necessary, then beat in very hard the yolks of two eggs, and, last, the whites beaten 

to a froth, and a pinch of sak. This batter can be used for any kind of firitters. 

HAWAIIAN CHICKEN — Cut up a fat young fowl, as if for 
fricassee, put it in a saucepan and cover with water; simmer until tender. 
The Hawaiian recipe calls for a pint of cooked luau to be added to the 
chicken at this point, but spinach which has been boiled and drained 





is a palatable substitute. When the chicken and spinach have boiled five minutes, add 
the cream of one cocoanut. Just bring to a boil and remove from the fire; add pepper 
and salt, the latter very carefully, to prevent curdling. The chicken must not boil hard 
after the cocoanut cream has been added. Serve with rice. Prepare the cocoanut 
cream as follows : Break a cocoanut into pieces, shave off the brown skin, and grate the 
meat. Put in a saucepan with one-half pint of milk, and heat slowly. When about to 
boil, drain off the cream and put the meat in a cheese-cloth bag, squeeze until the juice 
has been entirely extracted. The pulp is thrown away. This gives a delicious flavor 
to the chicken. 

CHICKEN A L'lTALIENNE — Cut the remains of cold chicken (or turkey) 
into pieces about an inch long and marinate them in a bowl containing one tablespoonful 
of Sierra Madre oil, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar or lemon juice, a few drops of 
onion juice, salt and pepper. At the end of half an hour sprinkle with finely chopped 
parsley, dip them in fritter baiter and fry in boiling lard. Drain on a brown paper, and 
serve with or without an Italian sauce. 

In some parts of Italy this dish is made of several kinds of cold meats, poultry, game, 
brains, etc. (the greater the variety the better), served on the same platter, and in Spain 
all kinds of cold vegetables are fried in batter and served together. 




PIGEON A LA CREOLE — Clean and wipe dry three pigeons and cut each 
into four pieces. Marinate them in half a cupful of Sierra Madre olive oil for fifteen 
minutes. Drain off the oil into a frying-pan. Chop one onion, one clove of garlic (if 
liked), a green pepper (seeds removed) and a tablespoonful of parsley. Fry in the oil 
until transparent, and then add the pigeons and sear them all over. Put all of this in 
a casserole with a can of tomatoes, salt. Paprika and cayenne to taste, one table- 
spoonful of finely minced salt pork, half a cupful of sliced olives and a pint of good 
stock. Cover tightly and simmer in the oven an hour and a half. Five 
minutes before serving moisten a tablespoonful of browned flour with a little 
of the gravy, stir into the stew, and when it thickens sprinkle with Par- 
mesan cheese, garnish with croutons and serve in the same dishes. 





SALMI OF QUAIL — Split two plump quail down the back. Heat two heap- 
ing tablespoonfuls of butter in the blazer of the chafing-dish, put in the birds and brown 
on one side, turn and brown on the other, then add one gill of highly seasoned broth, 
one gill of port or claret, one tablespoonful of mushroom catsup, salt and pepper to 
taste, cover and simmer until tender. 

CHICKEN PORTUGUESE — Into the bottom of a casserole put a piece of 
pork rind. On this stand a tender roasting chicken, trussed; add four ounces of butter, 
salt, and cayenne to taste, and a few drops of kitchen bouquet. Then add the follow- 
ing vegetables, chopped fine : Two onions, two young carrots, one-half head of celery, 
two Chiles, two bell-peppers, seeds removed, and one cupful of soup stock. Cover the 
casserole, and cook quickly for forty minutes. From time to time baste the chicken with 
a spoonful of the gravy ; then add two tomatoes, skinned and sliced, and cook for thirty 
minutes more. Serve in the casserole. 

MOBILE BAY GUMBO — Cut in pieces three fat young squirrels. Cover with 
a quart of water and add a slice of lean ham cut in dice, a carrot and onion sliced, 
pieces of celery, two sliced tomatoes, two cut up green peppers (seeds removed), a bay 
leaf and some sweet herbs. Simmer until tender and then add two pounds of nice 
okra, cut in half. Stew until tender. Thicken with a little butter and flour braided 
together. Then add one pint of oysters from which the liquor has been drained. Sim- 
mer for three minutes, and serve in a deep platter surrounded with rice. 




SALMI OF DUCK WITH OLIVES — Roast for eight minutes two sprig-tai! 

ducks. Cut off the breast, wings and legs, and put the carcasses into a saucepan with a 

dozen cloves, one onion and half a dozen stalks of celery. Cover with water and 

simmer to make a good gravy, then strain. Put in a saucepan the meat, two ounces 

of butter, the gravy, salt, pepper, cayenne, half a head of celery cut in small 

strips, one teaspoonful of currant jelly and one dozen stoned olives. Cook 

gently ten minutes, add a piece of butter rolled in browned flour, stir until 

smooth. Simmer five minutes, then serve with boiled or fried hominy. 





CHICKEN WITH OYSTERS — Stuff a fat young chicken with oysters, add 
two ounces of butter, salt, pepper, and a little mace to taste. Truss carefully and place 
in a tin pail with a tight cover. Stand the pail in a bath of boiling water ; boil an hour 
or longer. When tender, lay the fowl on a dish and pour the gravy into a saucepan. 
To this add more oysters, two hard-boiled eggs, sliced, a grating of nutmeg, salt and 
pepper to taste, a cupful of cream and some thickening. Bring to a boil and pour over 
the chicken. 

SPANISH PIE — Take one pint of cold chicken, duck, or any game. Cut it into 
flakes and place it in a pudding-dish which has been lined with a thin crust. On the 
layer of meat place a layer of sweet red peppers ( seeds removed ) cut in slices ; next, a 
layer of thinly sliced bologna sausage, and so on until the dish is full. Over this pour a 
glass of claret into which has been rubbed two tablespoonfuls of flour. Cover with a 
thin crust of pastry, and bake. 







iHacavoni> 3^ice, €tr. 

SPANISH RICE — Chop one white onion fine, brown it in two tablespoonfuls 
of lard, then add one pepper chopped fine and a half pound of well-washed rice ; stir 
constantly until the rice is slightly brown, then add three cupfuls of bouillon, one heap- 
ing spoonful of salt, a dash of cayenne pepper and a pinch of Spanish saffron. Boil until 
the stock is quite absorbed by the rice, which should be rather dry. 

NEAPOLITAN RICE — Boil a slice of bacon and a pinch of Spanish saffron 
in a quart of water for five minutes. Sprinkle in one tablespoonful of grated Parmesan 
cheese, and then one cupful of well-washed rice. Do not stir after the water has begun 
to boil, and when it is tender put it in a greased mold and dot a few pieces of butter 
over it. Place in the oven for a few minutes, turn out en a dish, and serve. 

CHILELY A LA ROSELEAF CLUB — Grate or chop four ounces of New 
York dairy cheese ; rub to a paste with one-half ounce of butter, one teaspoonful of 
made mustard, two tablespoonfuls of thick cream, a dash of Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce 
and a little cayenne pepper. Stir in a chafing-dish over hot water until nearly melted, 
and then stir in quickly the following sauce which has been made in another saucepan : 
Scald and skin three tomatoes, cut in small pieces, add one white onion and one bell 
pepper ( seeds removed ) chopped fine, and cook over a hot fire ten minutes. If there 
is much tomato juice, pour away some of it, as this must not be watery. After it has 
been added to the cheese stir until thoroughly mixed, and serve with Schlitz beer. 



FRIJOLES — Wash well one pint of small red beans, cover with two quarts of 

cold water and bring to a boil slowly. Drain the beans and cover again with cold water, 

and boil, and then again. The third time, add only enough water to cover the beans 

about one inch. Add two large tablespoonfuls of lard or dripping, one pounded 

clove of garlic (if liked), one large Spanish onion sliced, two Chile peppers 

broken, with some of the seeds removed (unless it is desired to have the 

beans very hot ), and five slices of bacon. Simmer slowly on the back of 

the stove all day, stirring occasionally with a wooden spoon to thicken 

the gravy. When done it should be of the consistency of mush, with 





the beans partly broken. Half an hour before serving pour the desired quantity into a 
Mexican earthenware pot. Pour over it one teaspoonful of Sierra Madre olive oil and 
simmer until needed. If you cook the beans rather dry and let them get cold, you can 
cover spoonfuls with batter and fry in hot lard. 

ITALIAN MACARONI, SPAGHETTI, TAGLIARINI, ARIGATI, 

ETC. — Have a large saucepan full of well-salted boiling water; add one-half pound 
of macaroni, spaghetti, tagliarini, lasagna, or any other paste, in unbroken lengths, and let 
it boil until tender. When it is cooked take it out and drain in a colander, then pour 
the mushroom sauce over it, heat with two ounces grated Parmesan cheese, and mix 
with two forks. 

POLENTA — Melt a large spoonful of butter in one quart of boiling water. 
Wet one pint of cornmeal with a very little cold water, add one spoonful of salt, then 
stir in slowly the boiling water. Bring it to a boil stirring continuously until the meal is 
cooked and has lost its raw taste. It should be thick enough to make into a ball. 
Lay aside to cool ; when quite cold cut into thin slices and put a layer on the bottom of 
a pudding-dish, dot it with butter and thin slices of cheese, then more mush, cheese and 
butter until the dish is full ; have the last layer cheese, and bake in a quick oven from 
twenty to thirty minutes. 




COLOR — Heat one pound of lard until it stops fizzing and then drop in three 
large dried red peppers, and cook till crisp. Take them out, crush well and add to three 
tomatoes which have been cooking in a little water. Stir this mixture into the lard and 
boil, then strain into a glass jar and cover tightly. Use a spoonful of the color to 
flavor and color stews, gravies, etc. 



RICE A LA MILANAISE — Wash a half pound of rice thoroughly 
and boil until tender in a quart of boiling water salted. When it has 
swelled well pour off the water, and drain. Brown in one-fourth pound 
of butter, one chopped onion and add a little salt, cayenne pepper, the 





JEacaroni, 3^icr, Ctc. 

rice, and a quarter of a pound of grated cheese, mixing together with two forks. Pour 
in a buttered mold and bake in the oven for a quarter of an hour ; turn out on a platter 
and garnish with poached or fried eggs. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE — Put one ounce of dried mushrooms to soak in a 
cupful of boiling water and let stand for an hour ; then take a frying-pan and place in it 
about two ounces of onion chopped up with a little parsley and fry in four tablespoon- 
fuls of olive oil for about two minutes. Having done this take the mushrooms and press 
the water out of them, chop them with a knife, add them to the onion and fry for another 
minute ; then add water in which the mushrooms were soaked, a litlle tomato sauce, 
salt, pepper and spices, and let the whole boil slowly for half an hour. 

RAVIOLI — Make a paste of two cupfuls of flour, two eggs, one-half teaspoon- 
ful of salt, and water enough to make a stiff dough. Knead well and roll out into 
a sheet as thick as very thin cardboard. Cut it in half and proceed as follows : Place 
one teaspoonful of farce in regular rows on the paste two inches apart. Moisten the 
upper part of the paste and place carefully en top of the lower piece, pressing the two 
together with the fingers or with a ravioli rolling-pin, forming small cushions between. 
Cut through the rows down and across with a pastry knife in such a way as to leave 
pieces about two inches square. Place the ravioli on a board covered with a clean piece 
of muslin, near the stove, and dry thoroughly. When needed poach them, a few at a 
time, in clear bouillon for ten minutes. When all are done place in a tureen and pour the 
soup over the ravioli ; add a few spoonfuls of grated Parmesan cheese, and serve. 




FARCE FOR RAVIOLI — Take one cupful of cold chicken, veal or fish, chop 
very fine and rub to a paste, with one calf or two sheep brains, parboiled ; add one 
cupful of bread crumbs which have been soaked in milk and then squeezed dry, 
one teaspoonful of onion juice, one -half teaspoonful of salt, a grating of nutmeg, 
dash of cayenne and thyme, and rub well together. Have ready one cup- 
ful of spinach which has been boiled, drained and chopped; stir the 
spinach into the paste, add the yolks of two eggs, beat for two minutes. 





¥^egetablesi 



ASPARAGUS A LA MILANAISE— Cut the tops of medium-sized aspara- 
gus into two and a half inch lengths. Tie them in bundles and cook in salted water for 
ten minutes. Drain and arrange on a fire -proof platter neatly, and cover with a rich 
cream sauce. Sprinkle grated Parmesan cheese thickly over the top and brown in a 
quick oven. 

TIMBALE OF SPINACH AND GREEN PEAS — Cook separately one- 
half pound each of spinach and green peas. After draining very thoroughly, mash the 
vegetables through a fine sieve, also three slices of white bread, previously soaked in 
soup stock and squeezed dry ; add salt, pepper and Paprika to taste, one-half cupful of 
cream, yolks of three eggs, and, lastly, the whites of three eggs beaten stiff and folded 
in lightly. Butter the bottom and sides of small timbale molds and dust with cracker 
crumbs. Fill two-thirds full with the above mixture and bake for twenty minutes in a 
pan set in warm water. 




ARTICHOKES GENOESE — Trim four good-sized artichokes ; remove some 
of the tough outer leaves and cut off half the tops. Boil in soup stock until tender ; 
then drain, cut in quarters, and serve with the following sauce : Put in a saucepan one 
tablespoonful of butter and one of flour ; cook for two minutes, and then add pepper 
and salt, one cupful of bouillon, one teaspoonful of tarragon vinegar and simmer a few 
minutes, and just before serving stir in the yolks of two eggs. 

FRIED ARTICHOKES (Italian) — Wash well four tender young artichokes, 
cut off the stems and all the tough, outside leaves and thorny points ; then cut in quar- 
ters, or, if large, in eighths, and marinate in French dressing, dip in batter, and fry in boil- 
ing oil until brown. Summer squash and cauliflower are treated in the same manner. 



ZUCCHETTI (Italian Squash) — Parboil six of the long Italian squash, 
cut in two lengthwise, and scoop out part of the interior. Beat eight eggs 
together, and add one cupful of grated Parmesan cheese, one cupful or 
more of stale bread crumbs (soaked in milk and drained dry), and two 





^^esetables 



sprigs of thyme, chopped very fine. Stir all well together and add a little salt and one 
teaspoonful of olive oil. This mixture should be as thick as breakfast mush. Into each 
piece of squash pour one tablespoonful of olive oil, and fill with the mixture, and bake 
until brown. 




ARTICHOKE FRICASSEE — Clean young artichokes, cutting off the stalks, 
all the outer leaves and thorny ends ; then cut in thin slices, throw them into fresh water, 
drain, and place in a saucepan with butter, parsley, a little minced garlic, and salt to 
taste. Cook slowly until tender ; before drawing from the fire add the yolks of two or 
more eggs, that you have first beaten together, with a little water, some lemon juice and 
grated Parmesan cheese. Be careful to stir constantly and not allow the egg to burn. 
Serve when it is of a creamy consistency. 

ARTICHOKES A L' INFERNO — Clean and rinse your artichokes, cutting 
off stalks, thorny points and tough outside leaves. Open out the artichoke by pressing on 
the leaves, wash in fresh water, and drain. Place them, standing, in an earthen stewpan, 
pour over oil, pepper and salt, so that this seasoning penetrates all the leaves and spreads 
over the entire bottom of the pan. Bake in oven until tender. 

PIMIENTO TI M BALES — Boil six large, sweet red peppers until tender (if 
out of season, the canned Pimiento Morrones can be substituted). Remove skin and 
seeds and rub to a pulp. Grate six ears of corn ; add this to the pepper pulp, also two 
tablespoonfuls of thick cream (or cream sauce), half a tablespoonful tomato sauce, salt 
and cayenne pepper to taste, and the yolks of three eggs. Mix thoroughly, fold in the 
beaten whites of the eggs, and pour into buttered timbale cups, stand in a baking-pan, 
half filled with hot water, and bake for twenty minutes. Serve with cream sauce. 

BAKED TOMATOES — Fill a quart pudding-dish with large, ripe 
tomatoes, which have been scalded and peeled, and from the stem end of 
which a teaspoonful of the pulp has been removed. Chop together one 
medium-sized onion, one bell pepper, seeds removed, and one-half 





cupful of stale bread crumbs ; add one tablespoonful or more of brown sugar and some 
salt. Put a teaspoonful of this mixture into each tomato, and moisten with a teaspoonful 
of olive oil. Pour a little oil over all, and bake in a moderate oven for at least an hour. 

AJIACO ( Peruvian Peppers ) — Take eight sweet red peppers, split them, re- 
move the seeds, and soak overnight in a pint of water. The next morning rub the 
peppers through a sieve, softening the pulp with a cupful of the water in which they 
have soaked. Boil four good-sized potatoes in their skins, and peel them. Chop half 
of a white Spanish onion, and fry until transparent; add the strained peppers and the 
potatoes, which have been cut In quarters, and salt. Have ready two slices of stale 
bread, which have been soaked in water and squeezed dry ; add this to the mixture, 
together with one tablespoonful of olive oil, some slices of New York cheese, cut small, 
and six hard-boiled eggs, cut in quarters. Bring all to a boil, and serve. 




PEPPERS STUFFED WITH CORN — Parboil either the red or green bell 
peppers. Leave the stems on but cut a small slice from one side of each pepper. Re- 
move the seeds and fill with the following mixture : Grate a dozen ears of corn, add a 
tablespoonful of butter, a tablespoonful of thick cream, two eggs well beaten, and salt 
to taste, and fill each pepper. Replace the slice previously cut out, and bake in a quick 
oven. Summer squash cooked in the same way are delicious. 

COLACHE — Chop together one small onion, one green pepper (seeds removed), 
three skinned tomatoes ; add one dozen small squash, cut in pieces, the corn cut from 
two ears, and one-half pound of string beans, cut into small pieces. To this add four 
tablespoonfuls of California olive oil, and cook slowly until the vegetables are tender. 

STUFFED SQUASH — Select six summer squash of the same size. Cut 
off the hard stems and parboil. Cut out a round disk from the stem and scoop 
out some of the contents. Make a rich cream sauce, add a little Worcester- 
shire sauce and a cupful of New York Dairy cheese ; cut in dice and 
add two ounces of cracker crumbs and one egg. Stir all together 





over the fire unlil quite melted. Into each squash put a tablespoonful of this paste, and 
bake brown in a quick oven. To the remainder of the sauce add a little thick cream, 
and heat ; pour this over the squash, and serve. Spanish onions can be cooked in the 
same w^ay. 

v 

POTATOES A LA CANNES — Wash six medium-sized potatoes, and peel. 
Cut them endwise in slices one-fourth of an inch thick and stand in salted ice water fif- 
teen minutes. Dry them, and simmer until tender in warm fat (not boiling hot) about 
ten minutes. Take them from the fat and drain. Make the fat boiling hot, put a few 
pieces at a time in a frying-basket and plunge into the fat. They should puff out to 
about twice their original size. 



TOMATOES A LA PERUGIA -—Select three medium-sized firm tomatoes, 
scald and skin ; scoop out most of the contents and fill with half a pound of well-spiced 
sausage meat, to which has been added two thick slices of bread soaked in half a cup- 
ful of boiling waler, and then squeezed. Place the stuffed tomatoes in a fire-proof bak- 
ing-dish and sprinkle over them some fine crumbs, add the following sauce, and bake in 
a moderate oven about forty minutes, and serve in the same dish. 

Sauce — Soak one ounce of dried mushrooms in one cupful of boiling water 
about an hour. Drain carefully and chop fine. Heat two tablespoonfuls of Sierra 
Madre oil in a frying-pan, add one large onion sliced thin and a bit of garlic (if liked) 
and simmer till tender ; then add the chopped mushrooms, two tomatoes, one chopped 
green pepper (seeds removed), one teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, and the mush- 
room water, salt to taste, and simmer one -half hour. Pour this sauce over the tomatoes. 

POTATOES A LA BATANGOS — Boil enough potatoes to make a 

pint. Wash well, and beat in with a fork two ounces of good butter, salt to taste, 

and the cream of a medium-sized cocoanut. (Shave off the inner brown skin, 

and grate, cover it with one gill of fresh milk and let it stand fifteen minutes, 

and then scald, drain carefully and squeeze the cocoanut through a 

cheese-cloth until every bit of cream has been expressed, and the 






meat is dry and powdery.) Add the cream to the potatoes, make very hot and beat 
lightly with a fork. Pile on a hot platter and sprinkle with the cocoanut, and garnish 
with Paprika, chopped parsley, or both, alternating, and eggs poached in sweet oil. 

BAKED BANANAS (As prepared in their native lands) — Place bananas in a 
baking-dish and bake till the skins burst. 

CORN FRITTERS — Grate eight or ten ears of corn, and for every cupful 
add two beaten eggs, one tablespoonful of thick cream and one-half tablespoonful of 
melted butter. Thicken with enough flour to make a batter and fry either on a griddle 
or drop into deep boiling lard by the spoonful. Serve with Maryland chicken. 

KOELE PALAU ( Hawaiian) — Mash well half a dozen medium-sized boiled 
or baked sweet potatoes. Heat thoroughly and stir in the cream of a grated cocoanut. 

WEST INDIA OKRA — Remove'the stems from two pounds of young tender 
okra, cover with salted water and boil until thick like mucilage, then add one heaping 
tablespoonful of butter, a dash of cayenne, salt to taste, one teaspoonful of vinegar and 
some small slices of broiled ham. Stir until quite hot, and serve. 







MOUSSE DE JAMBON - Put through a meat-chopper one pound of well- 
cooked lean ham ; put in a mortar and pound very fine ; pass through a wire sieve and 
season with a pinch of cayenne. Add one glassful of dry champagne, one glassful of thick 
cream and one glassful of stiff chicken jelly and mix well together. Line a mold with 
a coating of good aspic, then set on ice, pour in the mixture and let it stand till firmly 
set. Remove from mold a few minutes before serving and pass with it lettuce mixed 
with French dressing. Tongue can be substituted for the ham. 

PIMIENTO MORRONES SALAD (Spanish Peppers) — Drain the contents 
of a small can of Pimiento Morrones. Dry on a cloth and slice in rings, cut up an 
equal amount of celery fine and mix with the peppers ; add one cupful of small balls 
made of MacLaren's Imperial cheese rolled in fine cracker crumbs. Rub the yolks of 
two hard-boiled eggs to a smooth paste with the oil drained from the peppers and, if 
liked, a small bit of garlic. Pour over it, stirring all the time, a good French dressing ; 
when well mixed add it to the salad, which place in a bed of lettuce leaves and toss 
until thoroughly mixed. 

VENETIAN SALAD DRESSING— Rub an anchovy quite smooth with a 
tablespoonful of olive oil and a teaspoonful of French mustard ; add three or more 
tablespoonfuls of oil, one of garlic vinegar and one of plain vinegar. Stir until creamy 
and serve in a sauceboat. 




CHEESE BALLS — Mix together one cupful of grated cheese, one-half cupful 
of fine bread crumbs, five drops of Worcestershire sauce, pinch of salt, dash of cay- 
enne, and one-half teaspoonful of made mustard, and, last of all, a well-beaten egg. 
Roll into small balls, place in a wire frying-basket, and just before they are to be 
served, plunge into boiling fat. Cook a light brown, and serve on a folded napkin. 



ALGERIAN HORS-D'CEUVRE — Select four fine lemons, wipe 
carefully, cut in halves, and scoop out the pulp. Remove the tough 
inner skin and seeds, and to the rest add one box of boneless sardines 





chopped fine, a spoonful of French mustard, two hard-boiled eggs chopped, a dash of 
Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce and a liltle thick mayonnaise. Cut a slice from the bottom 
of the lemon cup in order that it may stand firmly on a round lettuce leaf ; fill each cup 
with the mixture. Garnish with chopped egg and two pieces of the rind cut like straws 
crossed on the top. 

SALPICON (Chilena) — Cut in slices one pint of cold veal, lamb or poultry, 
add two hard-boiled eggs, sliced, the leaves from four sprigs of young mint, one table- 
spoonful of finely chopped parsley, one teaspoonful of onion juice, and the hearts of 
two heads of lettuce. Pour over all one -half cupful of French dressing, toss until thor- 
oughly mixed, and serve. 

RIPE OLIVE SALAD — Prepare for this salad by putting some dice of stale 
bread in a jar with some bits of dried red peppers, several days before. Take two 
cupfuls of these crumbs, two cupfuls of ripe olives, and one-half cupful of young onions 
sliced thin. Pour over all a cupful of mayonnaise, and serve on a bed of lettuce. If 
onions are disliked chopped cucumber pickle can be substituted. 

PATE DE FOIE-GRAS MOUSSE — Take the contents of a large-sized 
can of pate and rub to a smooth paste. Have dissolved one tablespoonful of gelatine in 
a little hot water. Cool, and add to it one cupful of thick cream, and whip to a froth. 
Fold it carefully into the pate, season with salt and cayenne to taste, and pour into indi- 
vidual molds, which cover carefully and pack in ice and salt for an hour. Serve on 
leaves of lettuce which have been dipped in French dressing. 




CUCUMBER JELLY — Peel and cut off the ends of four large cucumbers, 

cut into slices, and stew in a quart of water, a small slice of onion, a dash of 

cayenne, and a small teaspoonful of salt. When the cucumbers are soft, stir 

in a half box of gelatine that has been soaked in a cupful of water ; stir until 

the gelatine is dissolved, then strain through a fine sieve ; pour into a 

fish-mold, and put on ice to harden ; have ready a salmon-trout or 





alalis 




rock-fish which has been boiled whole and allowed to cool. Place the fish carefully 
in the mold and pour the remainder of the jelly around it and put on ice. Garnish 
with sliced lemon, and place on a bed of lettuce with a green mayonnaise around it. 

RINCONITA SALAD — Boil separately until tender one cupful each of string 
beans, green peas, asparagus tips, and four artichokes ; mix and place on ice. When 
thoroughly chilled, add a rich mayonnaise, place on a bed of lettuce leaves, and garnish 
with hard-boiled eggs and olives. 

GASPACHO OR ANDALUSIAN SALAD — Put a layer of stale bread, 
cut into small slices, into the bottom of a bowl, sprinkle plentifully with oil and a little 
vinegar ; add slices of Spanish onion, tomatoes and green cucumbers, sprinkle with salt 
and chopped red sweet peppers, without the seeds; add another layer of bread, then 
another of the vegetables. Let it stand for an hour in a cool place, then scatter a hand- 
ful of bread crumbs on top, and moisten well with oil and vinegar. 

CHEESE CANAPES — Cut bread into slices one-fourth of an inch thick ; cut 
into shapes with a pastry cutter, and fry to a very delicate brown in smoking-hot fat ; 
make a paste of the yolk of an egg, a teaspoonful of thick cream, and thicken it with 
grated Parmesan cheese ; spread on the toast, and sprinkle with Paprika. Put in a hot 
oven for twenty minutes and serve at once. 

OYSTER SALAD — Choose fine, ripe tomatoes, skin and take out centers. 
Fill with a dozen California or Blue Point oysters, some finely chopped celery, a dash 
of Mcllhenny's Tabasco sauce, a little lemon juice, and a pinch of salt. Place each 
tomato on a bed of lettuce leaves, and cover with mayonnaise. Serve with Schlitz. 



HUNTER'S SALAD — Cut cold wild ducks into thin slices and 
marinate in French dressing for several hours in a cold place. Shred a 
large head of celery into long strips, place in a salad-bowl and pile the 
meat in the center. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs chopped fine, 

41 





PINEAPPLE SALAD (Honolulu) — Pare and pull into pieces a fresh pine- 
apple, add one-fourth as much finely cut celery, dress with mayonnaise, and serve on 
lettuce leaves. 

CARDINAL SALAD — Slice cold-boiled potatoes into a bowl ; add one-fourth 
as many cold-boiled beets, cut into slices or cubes ; grate part of an onion over it, and 
mix well with mayonnaise. In making potato salad, always use the German potatoes. 

BOHEMIAN CHEESE PASTE— Take equal parts of sweet butter and 
MacLaren's Roquefort cheese, and melt in the hot-water pan of a chafing-dish, using a 
very low flame. When of the consistency of thick cream, add cayenne and Worces- 
tershire sauce to taste. Stir until foamy, spread on crisp crackers, and serve with Schlitz. 







ALMOND PUDDING — Take one pound of sweet almonds and four ounces 
of bitter almonds. Grate and mix with one pound of powdered sugar (or you can use 
the prepared almond paste). Stir three-fourths of a pound of sweet butter to a cream, 
beat in four whole eggs and the yolks of two more. Add three tablespoonfuls of flour, 
then the almond paste. When well mixed cover the sides and bottom of a well-but- 
tered pudding-dish, keeping some of the mixture for the top ; fill with apples which 
have been peeled, quartered, and boiled in white wine and sugar until tender, and 
then allowed to cool. Cover with the paste and cook in a medium oven for three-quar- 
ters of an hour. 

Vanilla. Sauce — Boil one cupful of cream with one tablespoonful of sugar and 
one teaspoonful of vanilla, and while hot stir in the yolks of three eggs. 

SAN JOSE PRUNE PUDDING - Scald one dozen California prunes, pour 
off the water, stone, and cut into small pieces. Stir the chopped prunes into two cup- 
fuls of B. B. B. flour ; add one-half cupful of New Orleans molasses, a cupful of sweet 
milk, one egg, one teaspoonful of powdered cloves, and one-half of a grated nutmeg. 
Steam three hours, and serve with cream sauce. 



CHARTREUSE OF STAWBERRIES — Make one quart of jelly flavored 
with lemon peel alone. Before it hardens take two plain molds, one an inch larger than 
the other. Pour a little jelly in the large one and place on it a layer of berries cut 
in halves. Add enough jelly to make a smooth surface and set on ice. When firm, 
place smaller mold carefully in the middle, and outside of it disperse berries cut 
as above, filling up space with jelly. Place on ice. Whip one pint of cream, add a 
cupful or more of berry juice mixed with gelatine dissolved with water. When jelly is 
hard slip out the inner mold by pouring a little warm water in, and fill the space with 
the cream. Set on ice for an hour, and serve. Use apricots in the same manner. 

APRICOT BISQUE — Butter a pudding-dish and dust with cake 
crumbs. Place a row of halved apricots on the bottom. Take yolks 
and the whites of four eggs beaten together, one cupful of powdered 






Btsserts 



sugar, juice of one lemon, a teaspoonful of vanilla, a bit of salt, and a cupful of warmed 
flour, for the bisque mixture. The water beneath the double boiler must be warm, but 
not too hot. Put the ingredients in the upper part in the following order : First the 
sugar, then beat in each egg five minutes separately, then add the rest in the order 
named. Pour the bisque mixture over the fruit and bake in a moderate oven for about 
three-quarters of an hour. 

PEACH PUDDING — Butter a pudding -dish and cover the bottom with neat 
slices of stale bread, from which the crusts have been removed. On each piece place 
one -half a ripe, firm peach, skin down ; fill each with a teaspoonful of fine sugar and 
a small piece of butter, occasionally adding more sugar. Just before they are quite 
cooked add a teaspoonful of any kind of jam. Serve in the same dish, either hot or 
cold, with cream. 

PINEAPPLE COMPOTE — Pare a pineapple, and with a fork pull the fruit 
away from the core in small pieces. Sprinkle plentifully with sugar and pour over it 
one-half cupful of maraschino. Whip a cupful of thick cream and pile on the fruit just 
before serving. 

SPANISH HEDGEHOG — Thoroughly saturate a round sponge cake with 
sweet Spanish wine. Stick all over the surface blanched almonds cut in strips. Just 
before serving pour around it a cold, rich Spanish cream which is made of six eggs, one 
pint of milk, one teacupful of sugar, and one stick of cinnamon, boiled until thick. 




CREME SAMBA YON — Separate the whites from the yolks of six fresh eggs 

Put the yolks in a saucepan with half a cupful of powdered sugar and one cupfu 

of rum. Beat well together, put on a quick fire, and stir rapidly one way with a 

wooden spoon until it begins to thicken. Then remove at once, or it will 

curdle. Fold in the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth, pour into glasses 

and serve hot. A pint of champagne or sherry can be substituted for 

the rum, and the cream partly frozen before served. 





Besserts 



PIEPIELE (Hawaiian) — Peel and grate four large, raw, sweet potatoes and 
add the cream of a cocoanut, one tablespoonful of sugar, with a little of the grated 
cocoanut from which the cream has been squeezed, sprinkled on top. Bake in a pudding- 
dish in a slow oven. 

HAUPIA (Hawaiian) — Mix some pia or arrowroot with the cream squeezed 
from a grated cocoanut. Put in saucepan with a little sugar and stir until cooked. 

KULOLO ( Hawaiian ) — Mix with three cupfuls of Tarcena ( prepared taro 
flower ), two cupfuls of cocoanut cream, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated 
meat of one cocoanut which has not been squeezed. When well mixed pour into a 
well-buttered pudding-dish and bake nearly an hour in a moderate oven. Serve either 
hot or cold. 

BANANA PUDDING ( Hawaiian ) — Grate a cocoanut and pour over it one 
cupful of sweet milk and bring to a boil very slowly. Drain carefully and squeeze the 
meat in a piece of cheese-cloth until every bit of the cream has been expressed and the 
meat is dry. Mix with the cream a little pia or arrowroot, and pour it over half a 
dozen chopped bananas. Bake in a pudding-dish for twenty minutes. Serve hot or cold. 

BANANA COMPOTE — Remove the skins from eight bananas and stew 
gently in a glass of melted currant jelly for twenty minutes. Take out the bananas, cut 
lengthwise, and lay them in a glass dish. Pour the syrup over them and serve cold. 
A variation of this dish is to make the syrup of claret or port and sugar. 



SOUTH CAROLINA CURDS — Heat one quart of rich milk until luke- 
warm ; stir into it one large spoonful of liquid rennet, and let it set. Drain off the 
whey and pour the curds into a perforated milk-pan or a clean basket to drip for 
twenty-four hours. Turn out on a platter and serve with powdered sugar, cin- 
namon, and very thick cream. Strawberry jam may be used instead of the 
cinnamon. If too dry, a little of the cream may be beaten into the curds. 





CREME DE RIZ A LA MONTPELLIER (Rice Cream) — Put one 
cupful of rice, thoroughly washed, in a double boiler, with one-third water and two- 
thirds milk, slightly sweetened, and heated to boiling point. Flavor with vanilla, using 
a piece of the bean, and allowing it to cook for ten minutes in the milk. When the 
rice is well done and quite dry, arrange it while hot, as lightly as possible, in a round or 
oval ring on a large flat dish, and put in the refrigerator. Whip and sweeten a pint and 
a half of thick cream, and put on ice also. When it is to be served, heap the cream 
in the center, and sprinkle the rice plentifully with small candied fruits, bits of different- 
colored jellies, or small preserved fruits from which the syrup has been thoroughly 
drained. The pudding must be served very cold. 

SWEET POTATO PUDDING — Mash two cupfuls of cold sweet potatoes 
through a sieve ; rub one-half pound of sugar, one-half pound of butter, and the yolks 
of six eggs to a cream, and add two tablespoonfuls of brandy, two of sherry, the juice 
and rind of an orange or lemon, and one-half teaspoonful each of cinnamon, allspice 
and ginger, and a grating of nutmeg. Stir into the potato pulp, and fold in the whites 
of the eggs, beaten to a froth. Pour into a buttered pudding -dish, and bake in a miod- 
erate oven about three-quarters of an hour. 

MONKEY PUDDING — Cut the crusts from slices of stale bread and butter 
thickly. Place them in a pudding-dish and cover well with New Orleans molasses and 
bake in a slow oven. 




CHILDREN'S PUDDING — Into two cupfuls of B. B. B. flour stir one cupful 
of seeded raisins, one-half cupful of suet, chopped fine, and one teaspoonful each of 
cinnamon, Baker's chocolate, and ginger ; add one egg, one cupful of boiling molasses, 
and one cupful of milk. Steam three hours, and serve with caramel sauce. 



SPANISH CHOCOLATE CREAM — Beat the yolks of six 

eggs, put them in a bowl with three ounces of Baker's grated chocolate, 
one-quarter of a pound of sugar, and one pint of cream. Stir these 





ingredients well and pour into a double boiler. Stir one way until it thickens, but do 
not let it boil or it will curdle. Strain into a bowl, beat one -half pint of cream till thick, 
and stir in one and one-half ounces of dissolved gelatine. Mix this with the chocolate 
cream very lightly, and pour into a mold which has been oiled with olive oil, and put on 
ice to harden. 

MARRONS A LA ROMA — Boil one pound of Italian chestnuts fifteen min- 
utes, then remove shells and skins, and put back on the stove to boil with one cupful of 
milk, until tender enough to rub through a colander. Butter a mold well, and line 
thickly with the pulp, then add a layer of good, thick apple sauce, colored a delicate 
pink with currant jelly ; then another layer of chestnuts, and again the apple. Squeeze 
some lemon juice over all and bake in a moderate oven. Turn out on a platter and 
surround with whipped cream, colored with a little of the melted currant jelly. 

FRANGIPANE — Beat four eggs together slightly and mix well with four table- 
spoonfuls of flour ; thin with one quart of fresh milk, well sweetened ; add one-half a 
cupful of orange-flower water and six finely powdered macaroons. Pour this mixture 
into a saucepan and stir it over the fire until it thickens, then pour it over any kind of 
preserved fruit, and bake in a slow oven one-half hour. Serve cold. 



JESSINA SULTANA — Sift one-half pound of flour in a bowl. Into the center 

of this put six ounces of butter and the yolks of two eggs, grated peel of one-half a 

lemon and two tablespoonfuls of water. Mix to a firm paste. Blend four ounces of 

almond paste with the whites of two eggs, mix the two pastes together on a floured 

board and work until perfectly smooth, then place on ice for an hour. Fill the shells 

of two meringues with pink whipped cream. Roll out the paste one-half an inch 

thick, cut into a round piece, lay on buttered paper and bake in a moderate oven. 

When cold, put one quart of fine strawberries in the center and cover wdth 

thick cream. Make a border of the meringue kisses with large strawberries 

between. 





MANDARIN SHERBET— Grate the rind of one dozen Mandarin oranges, 
remove the peel, and squeeze ; add the juice of two dozen more and the juice of two 
lemons, and enough water to make one quart of liquid. Sweeten well and partly 
freeze, then open the freezer and stir in the whites of two eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; 
close the freezer, pack with ice and salt, and let stand for an hour. 




LALLA ROOKH — Whip the whites of five eggs to a stiff froth, also one pint 
of thick cream ; beat the yolks of the eggs very light, and stir in one cupful of fine 
sugar, the juice of two lemons, and one cupful of orange juice. When very light and 
frothy, fold in the cream and then the beaten whites of the eggs ; pour into a mold, 
cover tightly, pack in a bucket, with ice and salt, four hours before serving. The juice 
of any berry or fruit may be substituted for the orange. 

TURKISH SHERBET — Boil two cupfuls of granulated sugar with three- 
fourths of a pint of water to a clear syrup ; skim carefully, and when cold stir into it 
three-fourths of a pint of lemon juice and one cupful of clear white stock, and freeze. 

FIG ICE-CREAM — Peel the stems and skins from two pounds of ripe figs; 
mash through a colander, with nearly a pint of milk ; add the juice of one -half a lemon, 
and sweeten well ; fold in one pint of thick cream, beaten stiff ; pour into a mold, cover 
tightly, binding a piece of buttered muslin around the opening to keep the salt out, pack 
in ice and salt in a pail, and let stand for three or four hours. 

ITALIAN SHERBET — Make a syrup of one pound of sugar and one cupful of 
water. When cool, add one-half cupful of lemon juice, one cupful of orange juice, and 
one quart of peach pulp (or any other fruit will do ) ; mix and rub through a sieve. 
Pour in a tin, and pack in ice and salt until frozen — from two to three hours. 



RICE ICE-CREAM — Boil two tablespoonfuls of rice in one quart 
of milk, with four tablespoonfuls of sugar and a small bit of vanilla bean, 
or stick cinnamon, for two hours. When cold, stir in two ounces of 




blanched and chopped almonds ; add one and one-half pints of whipped cream, the 
well-beaten whites of two eggs, and more sugar, if necessary. Partly freeze, and serve 
in punch-glasses, with a tablespoonful of Kremette poured over it. 

GRAPE MOUSSE — Stir one cupful of grape juice (use dark grapes) into a 
pint of thick cream ; add one tablespoonful of lemon juice, and sugar enough to 
sweeten ; whip until thick, and pour into a mold ; pack in ice and salt, and freeze three 
hours. Garnish with a fine sprinkling of pistachio nuts. 







C a n ti i e s 

CREOLE PRALINES — Put two cupfuls of granulated sugar into a porcelain 
kettle and add enough water to dissolve it (only a few spoonfuls). Let it boil until it 
forms a syrup and then add the grated meat of one small cocoanut. Stir until it begins 
to boil or until it forms a thread when dropped from the spoon. Then beat it until it 
thickens and shape it into round flat cakes, about two inches across, on paraffine paper. 
Reserve a small coffee -cupful of the mixture which color pink, and drop a small button 
of it in the middle of each praline. 

SANTA BARBARA PANOCHA— Boil two pounds of brown sugar with a 
cupful of cream until it forms a thread between the fingers. Remove from the fire and 
add one pound of shelled English walnuts or pecans slightly chopped. Beat hard until 
it begins to thicken, then pour on buttered paper in round cakes. 

PEANUT BRITTLE — Chop fine one cupful of peanuts, from which the skins 
have been removed, and stand on the back of the stove to heat. Heat a frying-pan 
very hot and put in it one pound of fine sugar, stirring constantly until it is dissolved, 
then move pan to the back of the stove quickly, stir in hot peanuts, and pour into hot, 
greased pans, spreading very thin. The secret is not to allow the sugar to come to a 
boil, but only to melt before adding the nuts. 




CHOCOLATE FUDGE WITH FRUIT— Mix together two cupfuls of sugar, 
one-half cupful of milk, one-half cupful of molasses, one -half cupful of butter, and boil 
seven minutes. Add one-half cupful of Baker's chocolate, and boil seven minutes more. 
Add two tablespoonfuls of chopped figs, two of chopped raisins, two of candied 
cherries quartered, one-half cupful of English walnuts chopped, one-half cupful of 
blanched and chopped almonds, and one teaspoonful of vanilla. Stir constantly 
until it begins to boil, then cook slowly eight or ten minutes or until it makes 
a ball when dropped in water. Beat very hard and pour into buttered pans. 





RICE MUFFINS — Mash two cupfuls of boiled rice through a sieve. Beat the 
yolks of three eggs very light, and add ; then three cupfuls of milk and one tablespoon- 
ful of butter, then sift in one cupful of flour to which one -half a teaspoonful of Royal 
baking powder and one teaspoonful of salt have been added. Last of all, fold in the 
whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth and bake in muffin rings or gem pans, in a 
quick oven for about fifteen minutes. By cooking this batter in well-greased waffle-irons 
you have rice waffles. 

SALLY LUNN — Scald one pint of milk and melt in it three tablespoonfuls of 
butter, one teaspoonful of salt, and one tablespoonful of sugar. Pour it slowly into three 
cupfuls of sifted flour and beat hard until smooth and light, — from seven to ten minutes. 
Then stir in one-half cake of yeast dissolved in a little warm water ; cover the bowl and 
set in a warm place for the batter to rise. The next morning add three eggs well 
beaten, and pour the batter into a buttered tin to rise for twenty minutes. Then bake in 
a quick oven and serve very hot. 

SWEET POTATO WAFFLES — Mash two cupfuls of boiled sweet potatoes 
through a sieve, and add two well-beaten eggs, first the yolks and then the whites ; add 
half a cupful of sugar and beat again, one cupful of melted butter and then one pint of 
milk. Now add about four tablespoonfuls of flour, enough to make a thin batter. Pour 
into greased waffle-irons and cook over a quick fire. 




HOMINY BREAD — Boil until soft one pint of fine hominy. When cool add 
one tablespoonful of butter, three tablespoonfuls of corn meal (scalded), three eggs well 
beaten, a teaspoonful of salt and one pint of milk. Melt a teaspoonful of butter in 
a baking-pan, pour in the batter and bake in a quick oven for about ten minutes. 

SOFT CORN BREAD — Have one cupful of boiling water in which 
one teaspoonful of salt has been melted, in a saucepan, and sprinkle slowly 
into it, stirring all the time, one-half cupful of white cornmeal. Stir until 
it is a thick mush and simmer for twenty minutes, then add one pint of 





hot milk, or enough to make a thin batter, and stir until smooth, then cool. Have two 
eggs well beaten, stir them carefully into the batter and pour all into a heated pudding- 
dish in which a tablespoonful of butter has been melted. Give a last stir, and bake 
until brown. 

AUNT SALLY'S HOECAKE — Scald one pint of white cornmeal with enough 
boilmg water to make a stiff dough. Have the water salted and one tablespoonful of 
lard melted in it. Knead the dough a little and form it into flat cakes about a quarter of 
an inch thick and six inches across. Cook these cakes on a griddle or in an iron frying- 
pan without any grease, turning frequently, to prevent burning. In the South they are 
cooked in the hot ashes in the open fire-place — hence the name. 




BROWN BREAD — Mix thoroughly together two cupfuls of B. B. B. meal, 
one-half cupful of New Orleans molasses, and one cupful of cold water. Put this 
quantity into two one-pound Royal baking powder cans that have been well greased, 
cover tightly ; put in a saucepan of boiling water and steam for two hours. When cold 
cut in very thin slices and spread with a paste made of one tablespoonful of iMacLaren's 
Imperial cheese, one tablespoonful of fresh butter, and a little Paprika. Make into sand- 
wiches. Spread also with anchovy butter, or with thin slices of cucumber dipped in 
French dressing. 

CRISSINI OR BREAD STICKS — Cut a small portion from risen bread dough 
that is ready to be made into loaves. Roll into pieces about the length and thickness of 
macaroni. Place in rolls in a greased baking-tin one inch apart, and set to rise again. 
When double in size, bake in a quick oven. They will then be tender like rolls. When 
cold bake in a slow oven until quite dry and crisp. Serve hot or cold. 





CONFEDERATE DAUGHTERS CAKE — Cream one-half cupful of sweet 
butter with one and one-half cupfuls of sugar until very light ; add one-half teaspoonful 
of almond flavoring and one cupful of milk, and mix carefully. Have ready, sifted 
together, three cupfuls of flour and two tablespoonfuls of Royal baking powder, and 
add. Last of all, fold in the whites of six eggs, beaten stiff. Bake in a moderate oven 
three-quarters of an hour. When it is cold take a strong linen thread and divide it into 
three layers, between which put the following mixture : Blanch five ounces of almonds ; 
pound them in a mortar to a fine paste ; add carefully to one pint of thick cream, 
sweeten, and beat until stiff, when it is ready for use. Decorate the lop with the cream 
and halves of the almonds made to represent the petals of a flower, with one-half a 
candied cherry in the center of each. 

MOCHA CAKE — Beat three eggs well, whites and yolks separately ; cream 
one cupful of granulated sugar with the yolks, one teaspoonful of vanilla extract, one 
tablespoonful of milk, and then one cupful of sifted flour, to which one teaspoonful of 
Royal baking powder has been added. When these have been well mixed, fold in 
the well-beaten whites of three eggs. Bake in a buttered tin in a moderate oven, and 
when cold divide into four layers with a strong linen thread. Brush each layer with 
some strong, black coffee, then fill with the following mixture : 

Filling — Cream one-half pound of unsalted butter with one-quarter pound of 
sugar, stirring till smooth. Beat in, one by one, the yolks of three eggs, and then 
strong black coffee to taste. Spread between layers and on the top of the cake. 




JAPANESE TEA WAFERS — Break the white of one egg in a bowl ; add 

one tablespoonful of sugar, stir a moment, and then add one tablespoonful of flour 

and one-half teaspoonful of softened butter ; beat until well mixed ( it should be 

about as thick as cream). Pour a teaspoonful of this batter on the reverse side 

of a large baking-pan, slightly greased, and with the back of the spoon spread 

it until about four inches in diameter and almost as thin as tissue paper. 

Bake in a moderate oven till brown, and while still warm roll around 

a curling-stick. Keep in a covered tin. 





WALNUT WAFERS — Mix one -half cupful of brown sugar with one -half 
cupful of white, and cream with one-half cupful of butter. When smooth, add the 
beaten yolks of three eggs and beat hard ; then one-half cupful of New Orleans mo- 
lasses, and, last of all, one-half cupful of sifted flour. Drop teaspoonfuls of the batter 
on a greased baking-tin, about two inches apart ; place one-fourth of a walnut on each, 
and bake in a very slow oven until brown, about ten minutes. Keep in a covered tin. 

GENOESE PASTRY— Warm half a cupful of butter until a little soft and beat 
to a cream, with half a cupful of sugar. Break in an egg and beat until quite smooth ; 
then add, one by one, three more eggs, beating hard, and then half a cupful of flour ; 
pour it, half an inch thick, on a buttered tin and bake till done — about ten or fifteen 
minutes. Turn it upside down on a sieve to cool, and when cold, spread thickly with 
apricot jam, and then with chocolate icing. Put it in the oven a moment, then cool and 
cut into nice shapes. 







^ u n c I) e s 



THE GERALDINE CUP — 

The claret cup jug should be glass of pure crystal, 

Nothing meaner should hold this rare whet for the whistle ; 

It ought to be generous, portly, and clear. 

And this is the way that you fill it, my dear : 

Two ponies, or less, of fine Cognac you use, 

Ditto Benedictine or Yellow Chartreuse ; 

The juice of two lemons is next to go in 

With a curl of the peel and some slices cut thin ; 

Then if in your garden no borage you find. 

You've only to plump in some cucumber nnd ; 

Of sugar the quantum's a matter of guess — 

For the belles, say two spoonfuls, — for men, rather less. 

The foundation, of course, is a quart of Bordeaux, 

The best is not wasted, the meanest won't go. 

" He that hath shall have more, " not of thanks, though, I ween. 

Who for claret gives logwood ; brandy, benzine. 

Now as brick is to lime and lime is to mortar 

You need must " fizz " in a good Soda water ; 

Add a syphon of this, and this point please master — 

You're safe only with Club, or with water from Shasta. 

Then the garnishing comes, that deft finishing touch 

Which completes the good work and of little makes much, — 

A handful of berries adorns just the place, 

And a bouquet of mint is the last crowning grace. 

TEA PUNCH (twelve glasses) — Squeeze one-half a dozen lemons 
and grate the rind of three. Add three quarts of water and sugar enough 
to make palatable lemonade, and boil. When boiling pour it over twelve 
teaspoonfuls of tea. Let this steep for five minutes, strain, cool and pour 
it into glasses filled with cracked ice. 

55 





LolC 



CAROLINA PINEAPPLE PUNCH — Pull to pieces with a fork one pine- 
apple and soak in one quart of French brandy for twenty-four hours in a covered bowl, 
then strain. Make a rich syrup of one pound of sugar and one cupful of water. Mix 
with the brandy and dilute it with one quart of freshly drawn cold tea. When ready 
to serve add one syphon of Shasta water, a few cubes of pineapple, and a block of ice. 
Sprinkle a large handful of wild rose leaves on top. This can be bottled, and if corked 
tightly will keep indefinitely. 

RIESLING CUP (San Rafael) — Pour twelve bottles of Riesling into a large 
punch-bowl. Add from a half to a whole bottle of rum, the juice of one-half dozen 
large lemons and some of the rind cut thin, one pineapple pulled in pieces, and sugar to 
taste. Serve with a block of ice. Claret can be used instead of Riesling. 

EGG-NOG — Separate twelve eggs and beat the yolks fifteen minutes, then 
add twelve scant tablespoonfuls of very fine sugar, and beat until the grains are quite 
dissolved (from fifteen to twenty minutes). Beat in twelve tablespoonfuls of fine French 
brandy and twelve of fine old rum. Grate half a nutmeg in six cupfuls of milk, and 
add very slowly to the mixture ; then add twelve tablespoonfuls of thick cream whipped 
stiff. Last of all, add the whites of the eggs beaten to a froth and give a last hard 
beating. The art of making good egg-nog lies entirely in the beating. If it is made 
in any quantity the labor should be divided between two or more. 




PUNCH — Boil for ten minutes the peel of three lemons, one handful of allspice 
and one of cloves, in one and one-half pints of water. Strain into a large bowl and add 
one pint of strong black tea, two bottles of whiskey, two bottles of brandy, and sugar 
to taste. When ready to use add one bottle of champagne, maraschino and ice. 





Ingredients are called for in many of these recipes which it would seem impossible 
to procure, but Messrs. Goldberg, Bowen & Co., realizing the cosmopolitan character of 
San Francisco, have imported every variety of food materials and any ingredient required. 
The most attractive feature of a real East Indian Curry is the "rice table" which 
always accompanies it. This is usually a lacquer or china tray on which is fitted a num- 
ber of small dishes, each containing a different sauce, relish or chutney, and the good 
housekeeper prides herself on the variety and piquancy of these. The most common 
ones are Major Gray's Chutney, Mango Chutney, Soy, grated cocoanut, Bombay duck 
(which comes in tins and must be toasted in the oven before serving), sliced lemons, 
button onions, anchovies, sweet pickles, sardelleu, crisp bacon, and thin slices of broiled 
ham, etc. 

The genuine rice tables are seldom seen here, but it is well to know that an excel- 
lent substitute can be found at Nathan-Dohrmann's. 

What will prove a boon to those interested in the chafing-dish cookery is the 
electric chafing-dish, kept also by the Nathan-Dohrmann Co. This chafing-dish may 
be connected with any ordinary electric light, obviating the necessity of keeping a sup- 
ply of alcohol, the difficulty of regulating the filling of the burner and all the other 
inconveniences of the ordinary chafing-dish, which are so apt to result in burnt fingers, if 
nothing more. 

Macaroni is the generic term for the various pastes which are specifically known as 
spaghetti, vermicelli, tagliarini, lazagnettes, tagliatelli and several other Italian names, the 
best of which have always been imported. Marvelli's macaroni, however, is an Ameri- 
can paste which is made of the hardest wheat, and is fully equal to the foreign. The 
objection to that made in this country, heretofore, has been that it did not contain enough 
gluten and was so soft that it did not retain its shape when cooked. Marvelli's hard 
wheat macaroni has shown that this difficulty can be overcome. 





Cable of 

Four teaspoonfuls of liquid equal to one tablespoonful 

Four tablespoonfuls of liquid equal to one-half gill, one-quarter cupful 

One tablespoonful of liquid equal to one wineglassful 

One tablespoonful of liquid equal to one-half ounce 

One pint of liquid equal to one pound 

Two gills of liquid equal to one-half pint, one cupful 

One kitchen cupful of liquid equal to one-half pint 

One heaping quart of sifted flour equal to one pound 

Four cupfuls of flour equal to one quart or one pound 

One rounded tablespoonful of flour equal to one-half ounce 

Three cupfuls of cornmeal equal to one pound 

One cupful of butter equal to one-half pound 

One pint of butter equal to one pound 

One tablespoonful of butter equal to one ounce 

Butter the size of an egg equal to two ounces 

Butter the size of a walnut equal to one ounce 

One solid pint of chopped meat equal to one pound 

Ten eggs equal to • • one pound 

A dash of pepper equal to one-eighth teaspoonful or three shakes 

Two cupfuls of granulated sugar equal to one pound 

One pint of granulated sugar equal to one pound 

Two and a half cupfuls of powdered sugar equal to one pound 






3nt)tx 




Soups 

Barcelona OUa 1 

Bisque d'Ecrevisses 2 

Bouillabaisse 1 

Casuela 3 

Chestnut 2 

Chicken Sambayon 3 

Cocido or Olla Podrida (Madrid) 5 

Gumbo File 4 

Hindustani Chicken Broth for Invalids .... 3 

Hindustani Cocoanut Soup 1 

Hindustani Soup Stock 1 

Lobster 2 

Onion Soup of Northern Italy 5 

Peanut Bisque 3 

Pimiento Bisque 4 

Spaghetti Soup 4 

Shell Fish 

Canape Lorenzo fi 

Clams and Rice ( Mexican ) 9 

Crab Gumbo fi 

Crab Jambalaya 7 

Crab Souffle 7 

Creole Soft-Shell Crabs G 

Lobster a la Cardinal 9 

Shrimp Fritters 9 

Shrimp Gumbo 7 

Soft -Shell Crabs ( Italian Monastery ) 7 

Fish 

Baked Halibut 10 

Escabeche 8 

Fish Court-bouillon (Creole) 8 

Fish a la Guaymas 11 

Flounders a la Majouez 8 

Mexican Cod 11 

Oyster Bundles 11 

Planked Smelt 8 

Potomac Herring 11 

Sole Neapolitan 10 

Stewed Fish 8 

Turban of Fish 10 



Fish Sauces 

Barracuda Sauce 9 

Chile Sauce 12 

Garlic Sauce 12 

Genoese Sauce 13 

Kaihelo or Fish Sauce ( Hawaiian ) 12 

Mayonnaise Verte 12 

Salza 12 

Sauce Italienne 13 

Spanish Sauce 12 



Eggs 

Eggs a I'Ardenaise 14 

Eggs a la Bonne Cuisine 14 

Eggs a la Durango 15 

Eggs Fricasseed with Italian Sauce 15 

Eggs Scrambled with Mushrooms 16 

Eggs a la Stork 14 

Eggs with Tomatoes 14 

Egg Timbales 15 



Entrees 

Albondigas 17 

Andalusian Tripe 17 

Beef a la Milanaise 18 

Big Hominy 23 

Chanfciina of Liver 19 

Deviled Chops 17 

Deviled Meat 19 

Estofado de Cordero 21 

Fritura Mixta 17 

Grillades a la Creole 20 

Hachis a la Toulousaine .19 

Kidneys Los Angeles 20 

Liver and Anchovy 20 

Lomo 18 

Okra Gumbo Stew 19 

Oysters and Potatoes 21 

Sausage and Cabbage a la Milanaise . 21 

South Park Sweetbreads 21 

Spanish Frico 21 

Spanish Tongue 17 / fi 






Entrees Continued 

Sweetbreads a la Bearnaise 22 

Sweetbreads and Oyster Pie 23 

Terrapin 22 

Veal Cutlets a la Toulouse 18 

Virginia Ham 23 

Poultry and Game 

Blanquelte of Turkey 2() 

Creme de Volaille 2(5 

Chicken a la Bordeaux 27 

Chiud-froid of Chicken 25 

Chicken Curry ( Hindustani ) 24 

Chicken Daube ( Creole ) 25 

Chicken a I'ltalienne 28 

( Fritter Batter ) 27 

Hawaiian Chicken 27 

Maryland Chicken 27 

Chicken a la Milanaise 24 

Chicken with Oysters 30 

Chicken Picante 25 

Portuguese Chicken 29 

Mobile Bay Gumbo 29 

Pigeon a la Creole 28 

Salmi of Duck with Olives 29 

Salmi of Quail 29 

Smothered Chicken 26 

Spanish Pie 30 

Turkish Pilau 24 

Macaroni, Rice, Etc. 

Chilely a la Roseleaf Club 31 

Color 32 

Frijoles 31 

Italian Macaroni, Spaghetti, Tagliarini, Ari- 

gati. Etc 32 

( Mushroom Sauce ) 33 

Neapolitan Rice 31 

Polenta 32 

Ravioli 33 

( Farce for Ravioli ) 33 

Rice a la Milanaise 32 

Spanish Rice 31 



Vegetables 

Ajiaco ( Peruvian Peppers ) 36 

Artichoke Fricassee 35 

Artichokes a I'lnferno 35 

Artichokes Genoese 34 

Asparagus a la Milanaise 34 

Baked Bananas 38 

Baked Tomatoes 35 

Fried Artichokes (Italian ) 34 

Corn Fritters 38 

Colache 3() 

Koele Palau ( Hawaiian ) 38 

Peppers Stuffed with Corn 36 

Pimiento Timbales 35 

Potatoes a la Batangos 37 

Potatoes a la Cannes 37 

Spanish Onion Rarebit 15 

Stuffed Squash 36 

Timbales of Spinach and Green Peas 34 

Tomatoes a la Perugia 37 

West India Okra 38 

Zucchetti ( Italian Squash ) 34 



Salads 

Algerian Hors-d'CEuvre 39 

Bohemian Cheese Paste 42 

Cardinal 42 

Cucumber Jelly 40 

Gaspacho (Andalusian) 41 

Hunter's Salad 41 

Mousse de Jambon 39 

Oyster 41 

Pate de Foie-Gras Mousse 40 

Pineapple Salad ( Honolulu ) 42 

Pimiento Morrones (Spanish Peppers) . .39 

Ripe Olive 40 

Rinconita 41 

Salpicon ( Chilena) 40 

Venetian Salad Dressing 39 

Cheese Balls 39 

Cheese Canapes 41 f fi 





Desserts 

Almond Pudding 43 

Apricot Bisque 43 

Banana Compote 45 

Banana Pudding ( Hawaiian ) 45 

Chartreuse of Strawberries 43 

Children's Pudding 46 

Creme de Riz a la Montpellier (Rice Cream) 46 

Creme Sambayon 44 

Frangipane 47 

Haupia (Hawaiian ) 45 

Jessina Sultana 47 

Kulolo ( Hawaiian ) 45 

Marrons a la Roma 47 

Monkey Pudding 46 

Peach Pudding 44 

Piepiele ( Hawaiian) 45 

Pineapple Compote 44 

San Jose Prune Pudding 43 

Spanish Chocolate Cream 46 

Spanish Hedgehog 44 

Sweet Potato Pudding 46 

South Carolina Curds 45 

Ices 

Fig Ice-Cream 48 

Grape Mousse 49 

Italian Sherbet 48 

LallaRookh 48 

Mandarin Sherbet 48 

Rice Ice-Cream 48 

Turkish Sherbet 48 



Candies 

Chocolate Fudge with Fruit 50 

Creole Pralines 50 

Peanut Brittle 50 

Santa Barbara Panocha 50 

Breads 

Aunt Sally's Hoecake 52 

Brown Bread 52 

Crissini or Bread Sticks 52 

Hominy Bread 51 

Rice Muffins 51 

Sally Lunn 51 

Soft Corn Bread 51 

Sweet Potato Waffles 51 

Cakes 

Confederate Daughters Cake 53 

Genoese Pastry 54 

Japanese Tea Wafers 53 

Mocha Cake 53 

Walnut Wafers 54 

Punches, Etc. 

Carolina Pineapple Punch 56 

Egg-Nog 56 

Geraldine Cup 55 

Punch 56 

Riesling Cup (San Rafael ) 56 

Tea Punch 55 

Table of Weights and Measures 58 







DONE INTO A BOOK FOR THE BENEFIT OF 
THE TELEGRAPH HILL NEIGHBORHOOD AS- 
SOCIATION BY PAUL ELDER AND COMPANY 
AT THE TOMOYE PRESS, SAN FRANCISCO. 



V 289 



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